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I do indeed, 197 vvt so full 40 deg on inlet. We ran it up with solenoid disconnected and no difference up top. I know Haswell ran 182 vvt on this with 182 inlet cam, 197 exhaust cam. He said when full 16deg was activated on that setup it spooled later and lost power, bizarelly. To quote...

This is the old afr graph showing the issue move at 14psi. Exhaust manifold pics for ref..note longer runners on cyl 3 & 4 where egts spike briefly. Cylinders 1/4 & 2/3 are paired for twin scroll so assume no gate/backpressure issues and boost holds rock solid.

Its got to be something simple. I will drop a 182 inlet cam in over winter, needs cambelt doing next year anyway. Need to mod the 182 inlet for a trigger wheel for cam sensor, same as the kangoo. Im curious about the double valve springs, i.e lack of valve control at that rpm for whatever...

Ill get it resolved eventually mate, hopefully😂 Brainstorming whats changed on it since Haswell had it. Basically engine is the same apart from headwork, different valves, different valve springs, cam's and thinner headgasket to raise the cr which is still low around 8. Head is ported and has...

Updates. Apoligies long as f**k - TLDR - looks pretty but still not mapped/doesnt work right. Trip down to EfiParts on Sat for a pm dyno/mapping slot. Worst weather possible, of course! Non stop torrential rain..i honestly didnt feel like going on the morning as i hate driving this in the...

From a quick look at the pics, its going to require sills and jacking points replacing/welding.

Great job on refreshing the steering wheel.

197 plug is a 7 heat grade, compared to 172 which is a 6 heat grade. So essentially you would be running a slightly colder plug. Cant see you needing it unless cr increase etc. With cr increase or high rpm screamer, the colder plug would be better for increased combustion chamber temps/knock...

The line on its own wont change the fluid temp if its just a replacement for oem. Just drop the pas fluid level to the minimum mark, flush the old out for fresh and you wont have any issues.

Small update Knocked up a small loom to add a couple more switches on the ecumaster canbus switchboard today in the sacrificial dash panel. Daft hours work. Both setup in ecu and working. Not sure what to use them for yet. Poss sport throttle map and linear for street. Maybe rolling anti lag...

Cheers mate. Just a have a go hero i guess. Think about the issues and usually get a resolution several months later 😁 Cheers mate. Getting there slowly, i really hope the fuel system works this time round. Itll be nice and linear, lay the power down in a fashion and fu k off into the sunset...

Not guilty on that one. Cash converters £50 special for clip only. Need to get a half decent thinkpad or something similar as a slight upgrade. Put all ecu/diag software on it. My other laptop is on its last legs and is struggling as its also ancient/getting hammered with win11 updates.

Update ZF gear tooth speed sensor arrived today (part no GS100701). This is the same sensor ive seen for £70 -100 on a few tuner places, where in reality its £30 from Rs Components. With weather being good and curious to see if it was a goer, i freed a couple of hours up this afternoon to fit...

Lower charge temps are always a winner. No downsides.

Just shows, small changes to airflow can make a big difference to cooling.

Rstuner aio is nice, but not essential. You can also use winols to tune the oem ecu, using a basic level rstuner to log data. Can pick up a 2nd hand rstuner easy if you dont have one already.

My current nankang crs are defo wider than my old r888r, im sure they were 10mm or so when measured.

I run 205/50/15 on et43 2118 on my trophy. No rubbing on rear, get occasional chirp on top of front arch liners on full compression but thats due to rideheight.

Full send if fuel system allows mate, All in. Max out the turbo if all goes well. Tidy up a few bits as flywheel is lighter etc. Ive advised Chris that we might need to do some fuel system diag as ive gone as far as i can with it really.

Cheers mate. Sounds good to me, be ideal with a nice clean cut.

Agreed. Stilly life is about revving it like f**k with minimal cutting or letting it idle basically to annoy everybody. The only noise that annoys everybody more than stilly is multi tool :LOL:

Looks like a great turnout. Shame i couldnt make this one.

Cant beat a stilly. All my mates have gone leccy stillies these days, bizarre seeing them graft with no noise and not pulling their arm off trying to get the thing fired up :LOL:

Dont see them very often now as only for sale for a short period over here. Loads of merc sl though.

Done a bit on this yesterday. Its in for mapping this week and nothing like a good short deadline to get projects moving. Made a start trying to get a couple of jobs done that ive put off for ages. These are non essential/nice to have so doesnt really matter if completed or not but be nice...

Any links to the exact one? Will get one bought. I hate using grinders.

Busy weekend. Trip down to Danny Afro's to get his 197 engine converted kangoo up and running. I bench read the immobiliser chip on the 197 ecu a while back and created my own virgin immobiliser file. I reverse engineered my own immob and wrote the hex file to suit. This was a bit of a gamble...

Ill have a look..i need full kit as no m18 batteries. Need something quick ish as might be off a breaker so want to be in and out.

Tempted:LOL: i chiselled a floor pan out of a car years ago, but need a bit more finesse /speed on this. I generally use hand tools to save pissing about setting up power tools. Honestly when i was a joiner many years ago, all we had was hand tools and a cordless drill. Shared a hilti sds...

Makita was the best going back to the late 90's early/2000's when i first started on the building sites. Elu/dewalt was then the nex excellent gear to buy until the brand basically turned into yellow sack and pecker. Ill be needing to cut a rear qtr off a car soon. Milwaukee m18 recip man...