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Paintwork looks great. Gtechniq c4 permanent trim restorer is really good when applied properly if your after a long lasting oem finish. I done my dci with it and got 18months out of it before it started to fade.

If your on 54mm hubs buy 172 cup front shocks

Intermediate bearing looks knackered, will be time for a new one soon

The engine reliability does not really bother me, i know a well set up f4r is quite bulletproof as ran them in the meganes for a few years without issue. Its the gearbox that puts me off - ive blown up a jb3 or ten over the years and my current jc5 is knackered. The next step up to vag box is a...

This is my current dilemna to be fair. I keep thinking more power more problems enjoy it for what it is especially after years of running high maintenance turbo cars. Miss the torque though.

Prob not make a great deal of difference, it would be better with cup front shocks but i cant see it wrecking the handling. My dci has cup shocks on the back and normal up front drives fine.

You dont have to do the fronts however it will probably be due a freshen up if they have not been replaced before.

Genuine Renault 172/182 rear Cup shocks straight on nothing else needed. Impact driver makes it a lot easier to replace them.

Exhaust wont expand like that. Worn engine mounts will make the exhaust move all over the place and soft rubber exhaust mounts.

Not started it yet on the to do list haha, i seen one of the dci80 intake pipes for sale that would do the job.

Update Ordered new oem Renault beru leads to replace the knackered ones fitted. Cant beat new oem parts in the original packaging. Quick stripdown had to be careful not to chip my painted inlet. Old vs new, lead that goes to cylinder number 1 looks damaged where it meets the plug when...

Donnington is always s**t hot for noise, I got black flagged going 98.3db on the main straight in my Extra van a few years ago. I think the key is to lift a bit on the straight in something thats borderline noise wise. Not been back since prefer Cadwell - no bother there pass 105db static and...

Immobiliser will still work regardless of how its locked. Best bet is to spend £50 on new uch/ecu and key get central locking sorted

I wouldnt bother with one to be fair the oem immobiliser is decent enough. The only good steering lock is a disklok in my experience

My Kangoo 172 has the incorrect Uch fitted (N3 uch says D4f as engine type & abcde etc as vin) and always says boot is open as a result. The van has no warning lights on dash and runs fine with this setup apart from door open and no abs etc as its on cup running gear. Bought a normal 172 ecu/N3...

Good point it might make bite higher - depends on what the self adjusting cable does. I reckon they were trying to get more leverage on the clutch arm

Thicker oil not a fix for wear and tear. Just keep topping it up - however its a slippery slope once they start burning oil so would stick some money aside for rebuild or new engine or rebuild in the future

With spacers on the clutch cable it sounds like somebody has tried to get a bit more life out of a worn out clutch and hide high biting point. If previous owner has been ramming it into gear i would exepct gearbox to have syncro damage. Order a valeo from gsf cheap as chips with discount and...

You will need to add a bigger/better silencer or another silencer to drop the db level if you dont want to refit cat. Powerflow back boxes usually dont do much. Im in the same situation with my kangoo, one large rear silencer with stealth sytle tip but still very loud 99db static.

Book a trackday or two and get it out there that will relight the flame

It will be fine

Mrs new meg250 has a bit of rust/pad fallout on the wheels. Going to try iron x first, any rocommendations for an acidic based cleaner ? I see a lot of the harsher stuff has been tamed now.

35mpg mixed driving in my Kangoo172 - 40mpg on a run.

Cant help with alarm - Pull the airbag fuse instead to save removing battery

Conversion looks good - interested to see what it goes like

Give the engine bay some tlc last weekend. As bought - functional Whipped inlet plenum/fuel rail guard off and give them a clean up with wire brush on a drill. I had some carb restore paint kicking about so give it a light coating as free and in stock. Had a new inlet gasket in stock so stuck...

Mine is non resonated and decat 2.25" custom exhaust with back box only on my kangoo. Its loud and boomy at motorway speeds but sounds good with foot down. It pulled 99db at 5k when first built not sure what its like now its carboned up a bit. Cat will knock a few dbs off but generally custom...

Only one way to find out. As long as you didnt shift into a lower gear and over rev it massively i think it should go again.

I wonder if the flywheel or tdc sensor is damaged from box blowing up. I would expect it to turn over fast if you had bent valves/skipped timing.

Engine spinning over fast or sound normal ? Comp test time