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No worries Tom. Happy to help a fellow Essex RB owner! TPI bolts are good, but the locking wheel ones aren't. They don't seem that strong and rust easily.

Thank you guys :smile: Snappy retrimmed wheel and the interior is pretty much there. I do have another clock bezel to paint as this one has rippled ever so slightly. Most would probably skip it, but i know it's there and it bugs me. I may also change the CD player to a mechless one at a later...

Ordered myself a new keyring the other day. If you know, you know! :openmouth: The car was in dire need of a wash. The farmer had he's jetwash i out, so i used it after him, along with a bucket and sponge. Much better! Then last night i decided to stay after work and fit my handbrake...

No mate, I did it on axle stands but high up. I dropped the decat as the adjuster is above that and the heat shield. Mine was easy to remove buy others have had trouble with the bolts so it might be a good idea to soak them first.

I changed my handbrake cables tonight. Not a bad job tbh. Took plenty of pics too so will update tomorrow probably.

It's no bother mate. My bumper is (kinda) quick release. I'll get a pic tomorrow sugartits.

I can get pics of how mine is if you want?

The resistor trick didn't work for me. I had this problem as I didn't really want the lid there but by keeping it connected and blocking it up with a small bolt worked a treat and has been fine so ive left it as it is.

Haven't read it in a while and you've certainly cracked on with it. Fair pay mate. Loving the dash too.

Amazing work darling, excellent progress.

You need to block up the solenoid. If you put your finger over it when the ignition is running, you will feel it sucking. This is what the ticking noise is.

Either that, or change it and fit it as it is. You will need to access it from underneath the cat/decat. Undo the cat/decat, on do the bolt that goes through the gearstick bush and undo the 4 surround bolts and it drops out. Reverse the process when fitting the new one.

Stannard shocks are around £40ish each. Most go with either eibach sportlines (30mm drop) or cooksports (40mm drop) as you've mentioned. Might beowryh looking into new top mounts too if your changing it all. Spring compressors are not needed btw.

You know what, that might be the case. Mine was tweaked by Dan@SJM which I believe was a a tweaked RS tuner map. And I did the same on my old BG when it had a decat fitted, and that had the RS tuner map done too.

No mate, lights off ;)

Mines like that but the light comes on every now and again the disappears.

It's weird because I've done the same as you regarding the decat, but my light only comes on every now and again for a day or 2 then goes off.

Good stuff mate. Nope, none at all. No ticking or anything. Just more space under the headlights. Like I said, I have had absolutely no issues since doing it. I thought I did as my EML light was on, but turned to be the sensor off the inlet.

Does it sound better now? Different to your PM?

Just over 114k.

Gotta love a ph1.

That is perfect.

I've down exactly the same and its been fine ever since. Mine like yours was full of crap.

No issues here :smile: But I'm confused why were taking about driveshafts?

I'd agree with Dan mate. You need these clips: Ive removed my carbon cannister too. Threw away the cannister and the pipe from the inlet, and kept the lid connected to the other one and plugged it with a bolt. I looped a pipe from the back of of the inlet to the front air pipe.

The accoustic valve plugs into the original airbox and is a noise reduction thingymajig for eu regulations. Does nothing, especially if a induction has been added in the original airbox place. @182_steve

Thanks chaps :)

I paid £58 recently for a pair of genuine handbrake cables for a 182 from @renaultpartsdirect

Anybody a got a guide? Sure there was one on here

I had my pas pump fitted recently and it was a good idea to change the aux belt while it was being fitted. Might be a good idea for you, if yours hasn't been done in a while.