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wongy.........look at the engines.....the 106 gti/VTS engine is basic conventional engine tech nothing remotely challenging about it.
FOr most tunners that the general public use, its more fianancially stable to do what you know than dabble in things you dont, then you dont get bad press...
watch it again, engine is good, but teh chassis is abismal......they say its fast, but at no point do they mention the chassis.
The front end hops and skips with intermittent understeer.......not nice.
um isnt this missing some stuff?
you know....little old things like corners?
driver skill?
2 diff drivers in 2 diff cars, what does that prove with 2 variables, then add a third which is the strip and i heard crail (seen pics/vids) is absolutely pants...... nowt more than a glorfied WW2...
if they are loose/jammed/squashed (made of a fibre) then it will hinder you and possibly make a noise....
if it was teh exhaust it would blow and make a farty noise rather than a whistle.
unless you are moving fast and have teh window ajar or something silly like that.
looking good mate.
but i cant help but think it might of been easier if you curled the primaries up and then down (rather then down and up) so you could point the turbo down then have easier access for the compressor outles and turbine outlet towards the downpipe.
dunno :confused:
the early MK1 cats are not that restrictive and decats will gain a bit, nothing drastic.
as for the whistle......describe in more detail, where from, can u hear it outside/inside the car, you sure its not teh intake?
hmmmmmm.....im stuck too then.
to get the cable off the caliper is held in 2 places, one on a secured arm to hold the wire and onto the lever arm for teh mechanical leverage of the caliper.....im assuming that its this place it wont come off?
there ya go!
see, i had no idea the R sport ECU was designed to runa single lambda.....that makes life easier and creates a monopoly for them! hahah
Takin out the pasenger seat removes the earth and thus you get that light on as the connection is lost.
SOrry for teh rant mate, no offence, but i cant help but feel that people have this problem with others who dont beat about teh bush and patronise. If i had a damn company it wouldnt be a problem.....EVIL ICE has his thumb on the ICE section, yet i doubt he gets gyp for correcting and helping...
you see, this is where things go wrong, people dont like to told anything, especially if they have it in their head that they are correct. I am not here to make anybody feel small or stoopid etc etc. Im not here to argue, im here cause i like tech talk, others like racing talk and others like...
just cause the engine is working harder against a less viscous fluid doesnt mean an increase in pressure, if the pump was broken it would work equally hard but with no oil pressure.
like i said, use the same pump and the pressure change is a result of viscosity change through temp cahnge.
thats kind of misleading, the temp chance leads to a viscosity change. This affects the this affects the mean pressure tha pump can create behind it. there is no smart pump where it senses the need to pump oil at a hgiher pressure when its cold.
well......it really doesnt help till you get it up to temp....mine at idle and cold is about 3.5 bar and 6 at higher rpm.
drive around, when its at normal operating temp then look at the pressure.
it could be worn tappets and they are easy to replace but costly parts.
are you sure the threads are intact?
compare agains the other spark plug wells and see if there is a hardened insert, they might have them in.
If not you cna get a scrap head cheap or fix the current one with a helicoil.....but do it with the head off.
Of get that GTT lol.
either...