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Fuel need a certain amount of air to burn completely, too little air and its rich, too much and its lean. Its a known amount and the kits come with the correct jets to meter fueling. You fit it then test (i prefer to do an on rd test as you have load) to check fueling and ignition. If its...

Or fuel you for several years. lol

thats scot engineering for ya!

ill try dig it up............. problem is, its somewhere in this pile of manuals each one beign about 1000 pages each! Righto, here we go :(

dunno.....is it possible to drive one slow though? lol mighty tempting to just use a teeny bit more throttle than you should.

im pretty sure a machine shop would be so kind as to help for exchange of cash.

yay! ill see if i can get that info sheet to you on the torsion bars, i know i have it somewhere! But it doesnt specify which car it comes off. Christ, all otehr french cars you can buy them off the shelf......bloody rens.

dunno, people look too far for bolt on changes, when you could proabbly have this done in a week.

i picked the EVO cause i hate the pig slow scoob, handling......um.....do the designers work on that? the evo is jsut far more technically advanced, the scoob aint bad, but i would in no way buy one.

screw the scoob..............if your going to go along the Jap AWD route, dont pick the bottom car (bar the horrid GTI-R), skip straight to the evo.

i think they are diff diameters, i dont have the figures, but there is a torsion bar available off another clio (NOT 16v and im pretty sure not a williams eitehr) that is a decent amount thicker. But i have not been able to find out yet.

try plus gas....its better. also use the right torx bits or itll round easy. tap it with a hammer fromt eh back to try jimmy the threads. iff all else fails apply heat.

righto then! find the throttle body you want to run, then take the plenam off that manifold and cut&shut it ontp your manifold after you modify it for better flow if there are problems with corners, cut it, port, then weld together again.

tracling wont make the whole car shake. Unless you got a big chunk of dirt between the hub face and wheel when tightning

lol.......its a generic term....

on the throttle body.

nah, its easy and there is nothing to mess up. go for it......

so it only shakes when you brake? itll be the discs then...they new?

you binned the ICV!?? but it does sound more like the ICV, since the speedo problem would generally make the engine run rough/stall when coasting. if its at a standstill, the ECU is trying to hold a constant idle and the ICV could be broke or sticky. IT could also be related to your lambda.

lol...i thought you meant valve spring compressor....and i was gonna tell u not to use the traditional ones......but its suspension....jsut take care......or youll come back minus a head.

they can and should.......if you get a decent shop doing the work for you, they will recommend it too. The VVT actuator plug is ontop of the head near the cam pulleys....just take the plug off and VVT will be disabled.......alternatively, apply 12V to it to see how it runs with teh advanced...

most likely........unless a heavily warped and misbalanced disc. Did you swap your front and rear wheels?

yes. the mechanism is working then. maybe one side was not tight enough.

dood...id well, id rather not say what id do

if you move that lever with an extension bar will the piston move in?

Dog Bone or manifold asbestos ring/compensator on the way out. Its something associated with engine movement.

THe ECU gets its speed signal from the speedo dail, hence the speedo cable connection problems.

its not to bad now........for under 60 quid you could have it done....and there are so many to choose from! yay!

im still not seen a reason. You want an inlet manifold....fair enough, but to fit which throttle body, its not complicated to make one up, but its easier if you know which throttlebody you want to fit first.

mee too!