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yes and yes.
if you want to get it spot on youll have to visit Mr RR. Up the boost and youll need to sort fueling and ignition ideally.
Dont know what your running now but you can get fully mappable leccy iggy, to run timing vs speed and timing vs load......much better than a dizzy, but not...
jesus!
if it looks like that its ash........from poor burning of crud like oil........so either rings/valve stem seals or guides.
Is it on one side of the plug only or the whole thing coated in crud?
Do a compression test.
you still wont need that much braking on the rear if you are really pushing it to the limits. Weight shift will just lock the rears anyway.
drums have a servo action, so their braking force is not as bad as people think........upgrade to 16V discs and youll never be able to handbrake turn...
just put it after the pump........as per what the car originally ran...........
cool fuel..........youll be stuck in a vicious cycle of heating it through the pump/lines, rail, regulator, then the injectors add more heat.......fuel cools the charge. It is important and quite a part of getting...
great, carbon patch.....thats gonna look good! :P
im sure you can trade Chris for some of his clans print..............what teh hells it called........tartan?
get a pic...........you cant read a plug via words and descriptions of substances that you dont know the name of..........
you can tell alot about how an engine runs at any particular rpm, but if you let it idle, that plug now has no relevance to what your engine did at higher...
cor, dont get ahead of yourself there!
i mean, what std engine needs cams, exhaust and an ECU.............and a port polish......dont want boundary layers now do we!......no, their bad!
agreed..........i cant see any method of regulation.........for pump output that is.
9 bar.............lol...thats a fair amount, it didnt coencidentally happen to be their most expensive pump too did it! lol
in what NA engine would you want to run 9bar!???