Search results

if you want to chuck parts at it then go for it but chances are you'll end up wasting money. need to get it plugged in, check for any codes, clear them, run it for 20 miles or so, plug back in and look at live data.

when would it go solid red?

gear driven so no heavy return spring.

get it plugged in and look at live data. exhaust blow precat or post?

check loom earth onto the diff/gearbox above o/s shaft.

undo ball joint from bottom arm and you can pull it enough to get the cv out of the hub.

battery can kill an alternator so make sure you get it charged and checked.

what make alternator? battery ok?

i know but there's no harm improving an old design.

will let you off then:wink:

not like i've even got a spare rb cup spoiler as well!!

wear is generally minimum and can be polished out, the butterfly to body fit doesn't need to be airtight. it's generally when the butterfly is pulled to the side towards the spring it sticks on closing. the downside to bushes is they wear or if they are harder than the spindle that will wear...

can't wait to see the reactions from the pic of the spoiler...

oh and the spoiler is bloody awful to say the least. i genuinely don't know how he can put up with it.

i lift them with my teeth not i girly stacker truck...anyone want to photoshop it pink??

clear codes, take it out for 20 or so miles, kick it's head in and see what comes up code wise and look at live data. the clio ecu is a bit dumb to say the least:wink:

would be daft to do bottom arm bushes and not replace the ball joints at the same time. powerflex insert is good but ideally with set of new mounts otherwise it will show up how worn the others are.

i know you can 'turn stuff off' but not sure if you use uch that was originally on a cup if that will have the normal setting in it? no reason why it shouldn't but got to admit not had much to do with the uch. what stage is it at now? does it start? what works and what doesn't?

cheers for that. want to run proper bearings to keep the spindle from shifting. only come across one that was a spring problem but that was full of gunk to say the least. but never really paid the spring much attention when stripping them. looked at a couple of alternative versions of a return...

you really need to scope it to see what the signal is like. if you can get it on live data and look at the wheel speeds that will give you a point in the right direction as rear faults can be the tricky ones. if you get it done post the results for each wheel. don't be surprised if the nsr...

depends if there is any wear on the body itself where the butterfly has been pulled against it. i've got a couple of spare bodies i'm looking at doing either a recon or a rebuild using bearings to stop any lateral movement of the spindle/butterfly but just trying to work out a cost effective way...

knew i was right...three times:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

that's what put the doubt in my head!! h7 popped in first but then was thinking h1!! not got a car here either otherwise i'd of popped one out.

h7 popped into my head but it isn't...give me a mo it will come to me... no it's h7... bollox!! doubting myself here sorry!! pretty sure it is h7

nope, long story but it's turkish sm inlet.

if you use a front for a rear the cable is pulled forwards a touch. no problem though.

and apparently the shittest as well :smirk:

once he said he was going to use it and then sell it :tonguewink:

big jubilee clip on it but make sure the tensioner isn't ceased on the pivot. also what make of alternator did you order and what amperage as they list them incorrectly.

and mine was a £350 second hand inlet and a map from efi :cool: