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you need to find someone with a dynomec tool for getting them off. takes about 30 seconds if the bolt is bloody tight.

use 50/50 atf and acetone as penetrating fluid. acetone...nail varnish remover, steal it off the wife.

really??

use 50/50 atf and acetone as penetrating fluid.

had the dash top off at all?

check the relays along the back of the uch are ok, known them get knocked by passengers feet a couple of times.

dash light and headlights?

will do.

have to check in the morning. no prices with me at home sorry.

am over at efi getting my lads car mapped, won't be able to get over to you but if you want to meet me there can bring the cat and a pair of track rods if you want?

are you working on saturday afternoon?

i get mine from a local factors.

fai 6263 i think.

you will get the best price over the counter.

that was lucky finding a new steering wheel.

i fitted a lucas from euro the other week...back the next day!!!

spray it a couple of times a day for a few days with 50/50 acetone and atf. of save time and messing by snapping it off, cutting the collar that's left stuck on the splines and just stick a new arm on.

34?

contact cleaner, gt85 etc. if they aren't that bad. for bad ones i use acid wheel cleaner, quick spray, leave for few seconds, neutralise and quick spray with gt85

check and clean the connectors and see if it comes back.

very much doubt it would be the ecu, connectors or possibly wiring loom problems.

check the leads aren't trapped under the plenum.

wouldn't trust aftermarket leads on them, not the cheap shoe lace eurocarparts ones by any chance?

faulty leads or coilpack wont bring elec fault light on, also can't make revs rise. need to clean connectors under bonnet fuse box throttle pedal, body etc and get it plugged in. don't just change things 'for the price' otherwise coilpack, leads, plugs and lambda will set you back around £210...

good to know i'm not the only cynical one on here :tonguewink:

take it battery/voltage on cranking has been checked? where are you by the way?

just came to me as well, uch are coded n1, 2, 3 etc. you need either the same or a lower numbered one if you end up swapping. doubt it's uch though. tried the relays and fuses etc under the bonnet?

solid is key recognised but there is another fault so immobiliser isn't clearing.

even easier if you've got the tre off as well.

right...torque is crap, plain and simple. it will miss plenty of codes and misread them as well. i had a car in that showed no codes on it, basic autel reader brought up 12 codes. if you want to buy a good all rounder get one of...