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i'm not pissing myself laughing...honest:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: do you want new ones just because the old ones are...

that's taken as read:wink: i heard you got the knock back from nandos:tonguewink:

they are part of the runners, spotted in.

you get lost or something??

bolts for the seat bolts????

1/2" normally.

not had one apart but i always thought it clipped into the plug?

pms shifter.

Compression test then leak down test and take it from there. Could be cracked piston or just breathing bit heavy.

just get it reconfigured with clip.

column, ecu, controller unit off ebay and dci rack if you want to bin your original rack as well.

that's the one. three wide splines so will either be straight or 120 degrees out either way.

Nope, washes oil away and drops compression but don't read into compression results to much. Even 12 bar isn't anything to be worrying about, different testers can vary in readings. If it's weak due to duff injector then it will run rich to try and compensate. The Clio ecu is dumb so fee...

Probably duff injector. If it's not shutting off or even with misfire you get borewash and that drops the compression. Did you ha e injectors unplugged for the compression test?

These JPR Developments universal bucket mounting bolts are a quids worth at the most but we want to make them sound special and vastly inflate the price these will...

phase 1 isn't canbus.

but you've still got solid imobiliser light though?

AFAIK the bypass won't work once the car loses power? Could be wrong but not had anything to do with them.

It's had three sniff tests done and all been fine. Wouldn't use kseal etc on it.

pry bar about 12" should be fine.

three splines are easy to spot when you look for them. wheel should come loose with a swift bang to each side so could of been on cockeyed to begin with. i'e never bothered disconnecting the battery and never had a problem, plenty of people have said about how they always disconnect the battery...

epic fail on the wheel...have fun getting it back off:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: i did one that had been put on cockeyed, nightmare to get it back off. if you look there are three thick splines to locate the wheel straight. don't bother disconnecting the battery...

i just use a bar, bit of pressure and wind the bolt in. absolute doddle on a ramp.

don't get the standard one lightened. get billet one.

in the real world it does make a difference, you've got two cars that are identical, one with two owners the other with thirteen 99.9% chance you'll go for the two owner car/that one will be the first to sell. the 0.1% will say the other car just to be awkward troublemakers:tonguewink:

dependant on how many owners and what it's like under the bonnet i'd say that's pretty close to £3,000.

Without the bearing in place the top hat would be closer to the top moun. Need to pull them off and look. At least if you get the tops off, Jack the car up and try and get the mounts to drop you can reach them from the wheel arch and see if they turn freely.

that gap looks about right for not having a bearing fitted... what make top mounts?

they can be a bit of a pain to get into place, need to give them a wallop!!

sounds like they're not clipped in properly.