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that'll look even better with my trade plates on:wink:

check the exciter wire on the starter is getting power on cranking and then work back from there.

you mean when it was still on the car?

if you play with the collar for a few minutes it should start to sort itself out. as long as it doesn't go into reverse when the collar is down you'll be fine.

charge the battery and then drop test it, also check the earth clamp as they can misshape and come slightly loose.

ah, the classic 'it only needs' :wink:

unplug them and get probes on the two terminals on the injector itself, you can get to them while they are on the car easy enough.

measure the resistance, you're looking for 15 ohms

there's a link on here somewhere to a download.

a component fault should clear when it's been replaced but i've had a couple of phase 1's that have needed the code clearing to turn the light off.

if you need somewhere to strip it out give me a shout.

i use long bent pliers to hold the loom end and then plug it in, easy on a ramp but wouldn't fancy doing one flat on my back. you can get to it from the top if you pass the plug up by the arb, still bit fiddly though.

you need three arms and double jointed wrists to do it:wink: are you doing it on the floor or ramp?

could be worn lock stops, the rubber goes on the inner.

no worries

phase 1 fuel rail, pump and return line

yup, under £21 for set of 4

euro do them for a touch over £20 for the set. sorry to pee on your chips:worried:

the rear bar is good to keep shopping bags upright.

this made some odd noises to say the least...

that's what they do on the k4m

bit dear

i use these...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASTIC-PUSH-TYPE-RIVET-TO-FIT-RENAULT-PEUGEOT-CITROEN-FIAT-WHEEL-ARCH-TRIMS-/221381008319?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338b561bbf...easy to get out as well.

you need to get a vac test done on the head, stems can also double bend so the valve will shut fully but not actually seal.

came in as a job, was running rough, then cutting out and eventually wouldn't start and had no compression by the time it came in to me. slipped due to crank bolt not being tight, cams were tight, doubt they had even been touched. think the tensioner was out as well but can't remember. white...

could just be the angle of the pic, tdc hole will be snug fit.

bit of a rubbish photo but this was at tdc, took out all eight exhaust valves.

nice and close, i've had them with 2 deg of difference!! would be worth sorting the toe out though if you're going to space it. pms do loads of shims for that.

sorry, 15ohms

get geometry checked first before you change it. not uncommon for sides to be miles out from each other.