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the key is the height of the main linkage rod (the hollow tube) make sure the end of it is far enough over the solid rod on the box also, otherwise it crushes the tube when you do up the pinch
bearing is under the rubber, so you're wasting your time, strut will have to come off and there is no part number on the bearing or the rubber top mount! pm maynard, order 2 new top mounts and chuck them on - done
correct, if you read the information about them (that some clever bloke called Fred wrote ;)) it does say you should remove them come MOT time as it can be seen by MOT testers to cause play with the wheels off the ground, bit daft as i'm not sure when a road car, on the road will ever be driving...
f**k off that large nut on the KW's, its just a transport nut
the entire top mount then fits to the top of the KW, bearing, rubber, spacer and nut (make sure the purple spring hat slides over the shock tube and locates properly)
i'd guess about £180-£200 from ben, but he does do the cylinder heads for top end motorsport these days, rather than CS, so he has a (justified, finally!) waiting list!
TDF for mapping
and for as much crap as he's recieved in the past i ONLY use Angelworks for headwork, porting, inlet matching yada yada, i know his history and his currect projects (if i could say CS would be surprised!), yes he's a pain in the arse and takes his time, but he is bollock on