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Yep, but there isn't much need to dry between washing and waxing. Just rinse.
That way, you have more lubrication on the panels, since you are new to all this :)
The lack of heat build up to break down the polish and the lack of torque from the motors. This means they just bog down when any sort of pressure is applied, usually ending up in the motors burning out.
Dead right Andy, my mistake lad!
To wash and wax a car most detailers could be done in hours.
To take the paint/other surfaces back to factory condition requires time. Have you machine polished Audi paint before? It's not a walk in the park! :D
Quick Clay Kit? If so, yes. As long as you have a clay bar and a bottle of detailing spray/lube (and a MF which I think those kits come with) then you'll be OK.
It's actually a common problem on VAG cars to have TIPs that expand and degrade over time.
One of the legends over on Audi sport has actually fab'd a metal 3" TIP - that is a piece of art.
That on the other hand is just hilariarse.
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He will never be vxrmark. No matter how hard he tries. He was covered by Fifth Gear years ago and is looked upon as one of the original and best.
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As with most products that cost more, they are either better designed and therefore better at their intended use, or they are better built and so last longer.
In this case, the more expensive brushes will be less likely to scratch your wheels while at the same time offering very easy use...
Front wing would potentially mean bonnet and bumper and door "blowing" in, so could be costly. Same with the 3/4 I'm afraid.
Can only suggest that you get in touch with more than one bodyshop to get an idea on pricing and quality of work chap.
Both the Vikan and Megs brushes are fine. The EZ is the top dog, apart from the Wheel Woolies, but if you don't want to spend £20, I doubt you'll want to spend £30!
I have and have had most of the brushes out there. The EZ brushes last, but not quite as long as the Megs ones. The Woolies are on...