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I think its just one perm feed with no fuse to the stalk. Then the stalk feeds the headlights etc directly (goes out to scuttle panel fusebox on a Mk1) then out of that to the headlight and so on...
Its just a modified standard williams loom at the moment, but its due a re-wire shortly to which...
My cars a Ph2, well 2.5 i think.
Just using the indicator and light stalk, wiper one is removed/stripped from loom.
What do you need to know, what goes to what pin? that all?
Brake/Carb Cleaner from local factors for a few quid as said :)
Removal wise, pull the pipe off the airbox and inlet, then undo the 10mm nuts holding the bracket on that supports the valve itself. Undo the connector on top and it should come free.
I have a picture somewhere with 13's on the back of my old Mk1, il have a look lol.
The 5' wheels I tried for a laugh would not fit over front brakes properly, other 13's might though.
Put hosepipe down side of engine and blast the subframe off...take it for a drive then leave something under the car, plastic/cardboard. Then see if it leaks any more.
If it does id be checking for cracks in the box if its not the shaft
No worries, ive been informed the easiest way to get them out is to tack a bolt onto the back of them with the welder, then undo and replace with proper headed 8.8 bolts.
Thanks anyway everyone!
Either bad earth or wired upto the wrong pin on the alternator (if its a Mk1 2 pin connector on the alt)
At the end of the day its only a warning to say if the alt isnt charging properly really, just a signal wire connected up wrongly it sounds like
After a bit of looking around, it looks like a RIBE / Polydrive head. But, I can only seem to find those types in male tools, where I need a female one.
Does anyone know what the pattern is? And where I can get a tool...
Thanks.
On the Mk1s we take a Williams PAS Rack (2.odd Turns Lock-to-Lock), strip the pipework off, pack it with grease and seal it up. Feels like a normal manual rack, no difference really.
Only reason we do this is because the actual manual racks you can get (off the low spec models) are nearly 5...
End just unscrews off the steering racks arm. Not expensive, can be had for under a tenner from factors if you know of any.
Make a note of where the old one is fitted upto (how many threads on it is) before you remove it, so you can get the new one in the same place. If you dont you'l have to...
Track rod end...
Jack the bottom of it higher, it will eventually stop spinning when you put enough force up on it. They should not spin anyway, its usually a sign its worn...is it new?
Unsure, hopefully someone else will reply and give the best option. Bloooor had a box rebuild to be safe...not sure if it will just pop back out again if its put back in (like the Mk1s)