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On a phase 2 you can use the pipe/outlet that goes to the acoustic valve

Phase 1 + points Cable throttle Ally bonnet (early ones) Cheaper to buy Can sell interior 15's as standard - points Dash is s**te Heavy aircon to remove lots of insulation to remove Not much castor angle Most are boring silver 172 Cup + points Already lightened...

:eek: wash your mouth out young man! everything else you said is right tho ;) Depends what direction you are going to take wth the car, Less to strip off a cup compaired to a phase 1 but they are cheaper to buy

As said before, I will help anyway I can with any advice you need. Should make a really good Hill car.

Amazing, that all done in that bucket of soda crystals?

Cheap tho, wish you had posted about them a day earlier, i just bought some at twice the price :dapprove:

They wont do it again tho

Smear some poo on it, that will learn 'em

Lol, but leave the interior in, Matteh stylee

same with any car, people too obssesed by mileage. Drove some 30k 172's that felt awfull when i was looking to buy my first. back on topic, will the number 2 be left standard Whiteley ?

How much can they be had for? I dont want a minter just sth that isnt going to cost a ton of money to keep going

Number 2 has made me consider going oldskool and joining the mk1 club. Looks like a great car for the money

Pics of the ball joints mate? Loks good all clean and in the day light, reckon it needs some different wheels tho. They look a little boring but i know its not about looks. Did you get my pm about batteries?

Paul at RSTuning can do them iirc

Straight fit as far as i know

Could try getting another key cut or borrow a decoder ring off anoter car

Take your steering coloum covers off and check the connections on the decoder ring (around the ignition barrel) also make sure there isnt any dirt/crumbs/chewing gum wrappers under there

Tried using the spare key?

Im an (ex) mot tester, front fogs are not tested

Too much to explain.........Have a read http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=296190

Yep, remove it and block all the pipes. It will put a fault in the ecu as its disconnected but shouldnt put the light on. Fuel rail guard is another good one (unless you have a crash)

879kgs with 5kgs of fuel (Phase 1 172) Still has; electric windows, 2 seats, radio & speakers, standard panels

Loads to come off........ Lump of iron under the engine mount. A/C (compressor and brackets, evaporator, switch to cup fan) Sound deadening (heat gun and a scraper) ECU Brackets Carbon Canister One Horn Bulkhead insulation removal both sides (Properly by taking out dash) Dash face vent ducting...

1hour to go

Yep, new switch time £17 at the dealer

Cant anyone read?

Less than 21 hours left

Rear wheel bearing gone, probably taken the spacer with it now

I think thats correct

New thread here