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Pretty much, some of them are better than others. Only thing to try is to change the battery in the key.

I run eagles but i'm a f1 ***** so comes down to preference really, heard good things about the hankooks though but one of the reasons I like eagles is for the wet grip. Not that I press on in the wet just nice to know they're capable.

Ignore me i'm looking at the wrong hole all the bolts are in I think, there should be 7 off the top of my head. 5 at the front and two at the back either side of the coilpack. Might just be that the o-ring has split or something similar, get the upper inlet off for a clean up and look around see...

Get another bolt in there to hold the manifold down properly so it seals on the oil seperator vapour outlet properly and it'll stop it. Preferably the right bolt too.

If its tripped the ABS into limp mode then the EBD will be disabled so the brake split will not be what it normally is. What it actually reverts too is a good question, probably is close to 50/50 the way its all piped up.

There are two fuses on the satnav side of things, one for the disc unit in the boot and another for the computer that lives under the drivers seat which in turn feeds the screen too. F7 which is marked up with a picture of a radio and should be 15A is feeding the disc unit and several other...

Have tried disconnecting the hazard light switch yes? (obvious one I know just asking). Will have a look at the diagrams when I get chance satnav wise but otherwise hazards is possibly the UCH if the wiring side is ok.

I'd be happy with that

The one downstream of the cat.

This has happened a good few times to various people, tends to happen if the spark plugs haven't been torqued up correctly. They're quiet tight as plugs go at 30nm, so they get undertightened. Usually tend to get away with helicoiling tbh so fingers crossed!

Remove the dash top as said, should be there for all to see then.

DON'T even run the engine anymore until someones looked at it! Preferably someone who knows the cars well. Not necessarily if the engines still running but might not be far away.

Good effort on the first one!

You can get the refurb kits from renault, new pistons etc. Can't see a problem in removing the piston tbh as long as you throughly degrease and clean them before reassembly.

Ala: Instead of:

Yes just as easily doable as a clio rs rep. But for the love of god if you do go for it, get a better exhaust made up than all the other piss-poor attempts i've seen. Usually have a piece of drainpipe that ray charles measured and welded hanging out the back.

Climate control cabin temp sensor.

As good as that is I still think the best one are the £80+ power cables that you can buy! Oh yeah we'll just forgot the miles and miles of oxygen impregnated copper that goes all the way back to the power station. LOL.

The part he's not making clear is that if you haven't already got the loom for the CC and the ECU has the facility on it then you won't be able to retro fit it. So its not as clear cut as made out, not taking anything away from the guide but all he's doing is adding the switchgear from a car...

All of it

Yeh halfrauds sell them.

+1 screwdriver ftw

Be as good as standard stuff i'd imagine.

Not as far as i'm aware, 129 and 130 are (iirc the 129 is a speedo drive box but not 100%) and I can't remember what a ph1 is.

They're 110% the wrong ones, 1*2 ones look like so: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=1199&appid=2

Easily savable.

I'll tag along too.

Flat down, domed up.

I'd guess its had a front ender at least seeing as one headlight is a ph2 and the other a ph3. Grey interior plastic on the drivers side and black on the passenger as it should be, i'd be tempted for a track hack though as long as its not totally hanging wish it was a bit closer actually!

Mmmmmm defis.