Search results

Could be anywhere but I can't think of anywhere important/at all that uses allen capbolts off the top of my head. All hex headed or torx afaik. You'll be fine.

Power through the bonnet release grommet, poke hole through first with a screwdriver then lube the cable up with washing liquid or similar then shove it through. Unclip the PAS fluid res, get your hand down the soundproofing and pull it up.

Ph1 they don't come apart afaik.

The ST will most probably feel quicker than the clio and will be at higher speeds. And its has more power, don't think i'd call an ST220 to a 182 progession tbh.

No way would I be rebuilding with that lump personally, it'll just never be right. F4Rs aren't expensive enough to warrent the potential long term fvckabout imo.

There isn't one afaik. Think theres a touch up pen avaliable which might point in the right direction. When I had a wheel repaired the chipsaway dude had to go with the closest he had and mix it a little differently, think it was a mitsi colour in the end.

legend

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project Don't think you've bent valves if you've managed 150psi compression personally. Heres hoping!

Pass exactly, its close but a few shades off. Quite a noticable difference when together.

And its not the same colour as the 182 cup wheels either btw.

Or you can swap it off your current ones if your that way inclined. Easy to swap/remove.

Its a rubber seal and its not perished its just missing.

*cough*brakes*cough*

Its on the route overview page middle button if its the same as the one i've just got for my mum, the 530 i've got though is on page 3 like it always used to be.

Where is the gearbox actually apparently leaking from? The seal between the two halfs or from the selector? If its the latter then they all weap a little oil so don't worry about it.

Might be more cost efficient to be looking for another long block? rather than spending on repairing this one which could just end up causing more problems later on down the line. Could get away with just a short if the heads gotten away without too much damage.

My 1.6 was kinked around the drivers side edge of the sunroof, and was on an apex kit thing its more a problem with stiff damping than the actual lowness.

I'll go with battery on those.

+1

+2 thats new engine time imo. Although we know he doesn't listen to advice.

Control pack is shot, wants changing reasonably sharpish too before it kills the heater fan.

Carefully jack off the sills and axle stands on the chassis legs is what I always do at the front. Jack off the beam and stands on the sills at the back. Never had a problem and never bent one yet.

Not directly but is part of the system, do a search its a very common problem on the earlier D4F lump.

To the far right of the open skuttle panel. Thing with 5 wires going to it.

Exhaust is sticking out lots more than it should, i'm betting the boot floors bent it doesn't take much.

Can't really see the point in going to that level of pistons tbh. Anything over 6/8 just seems to be a c**k waving competition.

If no speedo then its defiently going to be one of the abs rings/sensors as thats there the speedo picks the speed pulse up from. How much play is there in the hub? Enough to move the ABS ring out of alignment with the sensor?

The ecu loom isn't being chomped through by the cover is it? Usually gives different symptoms but worth a check.

Deffo worth a try, thats not a normal running position for the temp gauge.

shedtastic