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I'd go with 17s.

I seriously doubt its possible to do it tbh.

Its great fun as your doing it blind for the most part but not impossible, i'm closish. Bit your after is 77 01 058 771 and is showing as circa £35 here.

What version of the disks? How old? English?

Mint! Theres some right tackle there.

6680 just because it was absolutely bulletproof, mine went across so many nightclub dancefloors in its time and still refused to die. N95 because it was a big step forward for S60 imo.

What was wrong with the tools? Wrong size crank pin?

Doubt it, theres loads of room in a 1.2 bay from what I remember especially if its sans a/c. Pics would help.

My drive :rasp:.

Coils easy, starters at the front on the D4F iirc so shouldn't be too bad. Lambda is straightforward in itself just a pain with how siezed into the exhaust it is.

You haven't got HT leads as the K4J runs individual coils so theres something less to worry about. Although the coil packs die for fun mind and may be had it by now. Coolant wise its got to be going somewhere, check all the hoses where they join things for leaks/white furr from evapourated...

I very much doubt you'd be able to get a Mk2 headlight open like that. Not work the risk considering the the cost anyway imo.

Not worth doing in the slightest, sell on and buy a 1.6 if you want one.

Looks to be correct to moi.

You'd have to pay me £5k to go to BB after their previous performances.

pimptastic Its a real one unfortunately.

Bearing puller required. About the only thing that'll get it off without damage.

Which side have you broke the mounts in and which mounts? My guessing is you've fucked the headlight. It'd be hard to get it back in spot on without the mounts.

Drivers side may have a roll pin in where the shaft fits into the sleeve on the gearbox which will need knocking out to remove the shaft. Passenger side with the yoke should just be the 3 bolts out the gaitor clamp and pull out, passenger side drops the gearbox oil drivers side doesn't.

225 injectors are 390cc iirc?

Different bore again I think.

Same route, different bore. Won't fit either or afaik.

Well with the ones I had on my superturismos they were definetly taking load due to how tight the ring was to the bore. The ones I had were nylon which is pretty good at taking compressive loads in that situation.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-SPIGOT-RINGS-CLIO-LAGUNA-MEGANE-POWERSELLER_W0QQitemZ360109885103QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item360109885103&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

If the wheels been pushed back then bin it. It'll never be the same again. Doesn't make logical sense to repair it in that state.

You want spigot rings full stop imo, I wouldn't want all the weight to be on the bolts alone all the time. You need some spigot rings with a 71mm o.d. and a 60.1mm i.d. as said.

Looks well.

I've got some in the meggy, good cheap quick and easy upgrade over standards. Wasn't amazed with them initially but they've responded to being amped very well.

Or moisture in the bulb holders and its tracking across. Common thing.

They're filtered and are just a split off the front speaker feed, theres no crossover on the stock system. The oem replacement pioneers are the same setup with a filter on the tweeter.