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Take subframe off and box straight out, fast and easy to do. If still on original hpas, unbolt the steering rack from the subframe and tie it up leaving the pipes connected, as the pas pipes are a nightmare to undo

Small update Bought a set of clio 197 H&R springs to see if the rears would fit to sort the rideheight out Kangoo H&R on the left, 197 on the right Original rideheight Fitted, on its arse If anything its actually too low on the back now :LOL: To run this low, id have to drop the front a bit...

Had to revisit the rear brakes on the blue dci yesterday. It pains me to have to revisit a fixed job but was getting noise from the passenger rear drum. Took drum off and the brake cylinder was pissing fluid out of the rear piston, typically was dry as a bone when i fitted the shoes on this side...

Done a few small jobs yesterday. Wiring is knacker tight next to battery, its routed ok but have fitted some plastic conduit to protect it furthur and pulled the crappy original pvc tape that was falling off and replaced with cloth loom tape. Done a couple of small jobs to finish the interior...

@Touring_Rob I think anthracite will defo be the better option as it will hide the brake dust. Ive done the white on white thing on the last Kangoo and the brake dust used to drive me insane, only clean for ten mins. Its in for custom exhaust next Sat, and then straight for mot week after if...

The headlamps fog up all the time especially if not used daily, mine have marks inside from condensation even with the rear covers off from sitting. Did you notice a difference of paint colour under aerial base? My blue clio was a different colour due to mega fade.

Looks ok, get some stiff engine mounts on will be sound

Loosen subframe bolts, drop the back down slightly and refit. Ten mins extra work do it right :LOL:

Centre cap looks a bit nippy :LOL:

Traffic diesel bracket bolts up to f4r, can retain alternator and a/c. Can use megane 225 aux belt tensioner.

Looks mint, proper job mate

Will be the same to retrofit as diesel, will keep you updated once i get cracking on with it. Looks like mk3 clio/modus squib with cruise will work, then just a bit of wiring and switches/clutch switch etc.

Looks like a good buy. I prefer the way the mk2 meg drives over mk3, more raw feel.

Cheers all, cant wait to get it on the road. Small update, treated it to a Snappy retrimmed 197 steering wheel. Typically airbag wiring is different as non cruise squib so recalibrated airbag ecu, took 2 mins. Will sort it out when i get a cruise squib and wiring fitted.Job done Thanks for...

Updates Fitted new flow matched 630cc injectors from Efiparts. Reset the ecu/throttle adaptives with clip, stuck another 9ltrs of fuel in & fired it up. Runs good, nice steady idle so was well worth spending the money on fresh injectors. With that result decided a quick test drive was needed...

I wonder why they made this setup and did not use the cup racer setup. Pas cooler line setup in front of the rad too

That mated up to a sadev sequential would be pretty awesome. Would seriously hurt the wallet though.

Seen this up for sale, will be a great project. Engine wise, what about a dressed up Honda k20 on bodies?

Might be able to slip a mk2 megane header tank next to the top engine mount like ive done on the Kangoo

Updates Was hearing an intermittent grinding/squeaking this week on the blue dci when braking first thing on a morning. I thought it was a build up of brake dust or poss weeing brake cylinder so pulled the drum off quickly to check today. N/s was greeted with shoe lining starting to come off...

@Conor L i had no joy finding the fat style air con seals so reused my originals. They seem to have swelled up ok after use and a/c is holding gas ok. If yours are shot, theres mk2 megane ac seals on ebay that are very similar and might be the ticket.

Cheers mate, yes looking forward to flogging it on a few trackdays. Will most likely do Croft first and see what falls off, fix that and go from there. Hoping for half decent handling with lsd and sticky rubber, power should be ample

Thermostat is most likely a 89deg one. Mine took 30 mins of idling annoying the neighbours to even get anywhere near that :LOL:

Cheers all, still buzzing that it works and is a few steps away from road testing. Just done the wipers today ready for use. Ive been meaning to do them for ages but been holding back as the to do list was massive at one point :LOL: fresh standard numberplates too. Ordering a new set of flow...

Back on with project Mangoo this weekend First job on Sat was to refit the fuel tank and make some an-6 fuel lines up. Pretty boring and got a load of shite in my eyes as expected, did not take many pics. Only plus side was i bought some proper hose shears which cut the braided pipe like a hot...

Mine used to be annoying in cold weather/cold start, hesitating until the engine and warmed up slightly, took a mile or so of driving. Never noticed it in summer, by the time id fired it up and opened the drive gates, the engine was warm enough. Mine was decat on stock ecu, always meant to get...

Sluggish/hesitation from cold is absolutely normal, they all do it unless its mapped out.

Should be easy enough to swap casings, get another set off a knackered alternator. Pop a new set of bearings in if needed, and set of brushes, maybe a regulator if not too expensive and then your alternator is as good as reconditioned. Loads of youtube vids of alternator repairs if you need...

I think the meg 225 throttle body is around 40mm from memory, its fine for loads of power, 450hp+.

Thats good to hear, will crack on with mine soon. Nice discreet install.