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You won’t need to do it on the 832 mate. It’s only the 73x series engine that needs.

Ah mate, that’s like music to my ears!! Yes is the answer! I ran one on mine as well and used a laminova setup. Cooling on the Elise box will be more important the the Clio box due to its location, but it’s definitely worthwhile. If you click on my username there will be a link to the build...

For a track/race car go with mt90. Lsd oil will kill a jc5 as they need gl4 oil. As stated above, go with the oil that will look after the box, not the diff.

You spelt s**t wrong mate.

Right let’s try and put this into some sort of rule of thumb information for others then. ?? The lifespan of a gripper entirely depends on how much preload it’s set up for and how much use it gets. For example, a race spec diff with 120nm+ of preload will last a season of racing. If this is a...

Well I can answer this question very easily. The mfactory is essentially a copy of a Quaife diff, so they’re the same. One is cheaper than the other by around £30/£40 once you’ve added all the extras you need to make the mfactory as reliable as the Quaife.

All rhd Clio’s have the smi rack mate.

If you put a washer over the end of the rivet, it’ll stop it pulling through mate.

Not that cheap mate unfortunately.

Pity that!

You got a budget?

Yeah that’s essentially what you have to do with them mate. Keep them going to the gearchange bleep and change. They don’t feel as urgent as a 172, but that’s because they’re a more refined car in Clio terms. I’ve got an AG200 with all the desirable bits on it, so Recaros and speedlines. It’s...

Real world 200 mpg is 28/29 if you’re not on it, where as a cup will do 35+.

I’ve had 2x 172 cups and currently own a 200 with cup chassis. Sorry to disappoint here, but the 200 is the better car. Chassis and brakes are miles ahead of the 172. Get the changes right and the 200 will live with a 172.

I’ve got a few mate, but I’d have to look at the names of them. Allan Staniforth rings a bell as an author, but maybe for other areas.

Honestly mate, the best thing you could do would be to buy a book to get a greater understanding. There’s so many things happening it would take ages to write it all down and explain it.

Rear controls the front on fwd cars anyway mate.

Geometry changes can make the back end slippy on any car mate. I know! Muckin Fental

1000lb fronts and 400lb rear from memory. They had different bushes but no additional anti roll bars.

Have you checked the terminal on the alternator? Mine broke and gave the exact same fault as you’re describing - could be a cheap fix. Regards replacement alternators, there’s quite a few different types, so just be aware.

@Kev@KAM your services are required mate.

Contact @nath&alex mate. He may be able to sell you a set. ??

Lol!! Thought I was going mad in my old age!! Go with the 9F and 8R mate. Then it’s all about seat time and getting to grips with the car and dialling it in to suit you. Drop wise I’d say the usual 60mm+ up front and 40/50mm rear. There’s ways and means of getting the rear lower though. Not...

I could swear I mentioned the BC option mate? They’re where I’d be spending my money if Ast’s weren’t within budget.

You have to have a specific stub axle and calipers bracket mate.

Nah they don’t have the spacer mate. We didn’t have any spacers on the ones that @nath&alex made for our cars. @Jon-r87 twingo rear discs have a larger bearing, so you get better reliability. I could kill a pair of 1*2 rear wheel bearings on a trackday. Didn’t fancy that happening at the...

If you look at how the bush fits, you’ll see they’ve just copied the original rubber design. You need to cut the poly bushes to stop them overclamping the roll bar.

@LeeP86 maybe able to help with storage?

I just used some 14.9 cap head screws in my engine build. Reusable and if they do fail, that’ll be the least of your worries. Only cost £4 as well for a full set! Lol

The 197 pulley has a total movement forwards and backwards of that much mate, not just one way.