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Yes no problem mate.

Yeah no worries mate. I'll just keep a couple aside for you. :up:

Diff service at the same time?

Standard elf oil from renault will be fine if you aren't tracking the car mate

No mate they're an almost identical synchro ring to the oe item. These have just had the tolerances closed up to improve efficiency.

Morning all, Just a heads up to say that after much aggro, I've managed to get some improved synchro rings sorted out for the jc5's. These aren't designed for fast gearchanges - that's just how the box is designed. What these synchro rings are aimed at is giving a significant improvement in...

Cheers mate. Very much appreciated.

I ran the 197 head on mine and ran the fully variable vvt on the gen90. No oilways redrilled at all. I've looked at all the oilways on the 1*2 and the 197 head, and there's no requirement to drill oilways. You just need to sort the dephaser solenoid.

Cheers mate. I'm quite surprised by the amount of offers I've had for a chin wag tbh. Just goes to show how good cs is!

The early ph1 cranks are what you need as they're the heaviest and according to form the strongest. 197/200 is the next one down in terms of weight, but it's been balanced from the factory to withstand 7800rpm. 172 ph2 crank is the lightest and wankest one. You only have to compare the design...

I'll drop you a pm mate. I can supply a quaife for you as well though.

Cheers gents. Not been on in a few days, so only just got round to replying. Unsure if the car is staying or going currently, but the akrapovic will most likely be sold regardless now.

@mw897 i can supply and fit Quaife's and grippers. I can also do a full rebuild on your box. Drop me a pm if you're interested.

@Markmec the parts to fix it are about £70-£80. I can strip and rebuild the box for you as well if you're interested? Drop me a pm and we can discuss further if you like.

With the car? Yes mate it's spot on tbh. Me not so much.

Not driven it since it was mot'd in March mate.

Long story mate. I'll text you.

If anyone's interested in buying the 200, drop me a pm. Thanks

Did you have the bore measured? New rings fitted?

Valve guides replaced when rebuilt? If not, that'll be the cause of the oil loss.

In that case, full stiff rear, half way on the fronts and then dial both ends in to suit. If it's too stiff at the rear and a bit flighty, turn the damper down one click.

For track, go full stiff on the rear dampers and go half way on the fronts. Then dial the fronts in to suit.

Excellent mate. Nice and compliant on the road. Was a bit soft on the track, but it was a very good compromise.

That's a similar setup to what I had on my cup originally when I was running kw v2's. Worked well tbf.

The anti roll bar is welded into the rear axle mate at each end. You could try grinding the weld back and smacking f**k out of it, but how successful you'd be, I couldn't say. You'd also need it in a jig so you don't distort the axle mate.

What's those kg rates in lbs?

I have the pics of the wiring alterations required for the swap mate funnily enough. Lol

3 times to stretch them. :wink:

That looks great mate!

😂