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Some of the 130's had that extra brace piece where the crank sensor mounts mate tbh. I think the clutch cable looks different because the bracket for the cable isn't fitted.
It's about £18 and you need 3 bottles. It comes as a us quart, which is just under 1ltr. 3 bottles is sufficient though.
The Fuchs stuff is around £14 for syn 5, which is a 75/90. Only other option would be the Fuchs sintofluid as it's a 75/80, but that's more roadcar biased.
It all comes from personal experience tbh mate. I've run it in a few highly stressed gearboxes, and they've all looked untouched when they'd been opened up for routine maintenance. I also look at the spec sheets for the oils and look at viscosities, temperature ranges etc. If the car is to be...
That's your clutch mate making the noise imo. Helix clutches have been known to make a similar noise as well! It's the splined centre of the clutch that has a small amount of play and that's the resulting rattle.
Senders fucked then by the sounds of that. Blast it with brake cleaner and an airline blower mate. It may have some s**t in there - ya never know. We have this happen from time to time.
You need a mechanical oil pressure gauge then mate. That's the only way you'll know that you're getting oil pressure or not.
Start simple before moving on to bigger issues.
If the system is/was bone dry, you'll need to prime the oil pump for definite mate. It sounds like the op relief valve could be stuck open, or its air locked and the pump isn't pumping.
Need to know if the pump is working first though. Once that has been ascertained, you can rule out if the...
I'm trying to rearrange a few things so I can head over @Christopher I'd meet you guys there though at the triangle as I'm a fair few miles away from Trafford Park!
@Scattle ooh ya fucker! That just went didn't it! Glad you're all ok, and remember, it's only a piece of metal at the end of the day - it can be replaced.
Devastating none the less.
Finding wheels to suit the car is quite difficult I think personally. I'm still a speedline fanboy though, so what do I know! Lol!
Where did you get them from out of interest? Was it from that guy in the Chech Republic? Or where ever he's from! Lol
If it's a race car you want upwards of 500lb springs up front mate. Regarding the rear, it's a lever, so your 500lb rears will work out to be the opposite way around to what you're thinking due to the lever ratio. The wheel would only actually 'see' around the 350lb region.
You're going to...
This. Check the rear dampers aren't fucked and get the alignment checked to see where everything is at.
Post the results of the alignment and we can take it from there.
Study how the seal sits in the block before you remove it and you'll see it appears to sit in at the bottom further than the top. This is because the block isn't square with the end of the crank.
If you fit the new one in the same position as the old one, you'll have no leaks. If you don't...
You can't unless you've still got the edit button available mate.
Let me know if you want me to remove the pic and the writing mate so you can add it back in with a new post.