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Afraid not mate. It's still in the same place as it was when I last posted any progress updates. I'll be restarting progress February time I think. Got a few gearbox jobs that are priority over the cup atm.

I have actual pictures of one being stripped down if that's of any use? I can explain everything that your seeing as well if required.

Yeah they're alright mate.

Yeah they're all the same mate.

Did you measure the block and ring gaps when you built up the forged bottom end? Worn valve guides are another area that could mean it's burning oil. Check your breather hose for signs of oil as well.

The one way valve is at the end of the pipe that goes into the servo mate.

Check the pipe is easy to blow through and also check the one way valve is working properly. There's a chance that it could be master cylinder or servo related.

I know mate. He's always on with something or other.

Lol!

Yeah the focus was as well. Shame he sacked the duratec build off tbh, but the block just wasn't standing up to the hp and they kept cracking. Yeah he's definitely that mate!

Just get some of the weld on AN fittings mate. Makes a far neater job and reduces the risk of leaks. AN -6 or -8 would be ideal.

Ah ok! Lol

You would've been better off getting it built by Ian Howell of fiesta frenzy/area six fame. His engines were strong and more importantly, reliable. I know as he's a very good friend of mine.

Flol!! I see your still using the pic of it all laid out on my old living room floor!

Cup pipe work is specific to the cup unless you've got a cc equipped cup. You could always buy a shorter belt and bypass the pump. I *think* you can do this and leave the pump in situ, but I'm not 100% certain. Don't drive it with the belt turning the pump as it'll seize up and make the aux...

I have high hopes for it like this tbh.

No mate nothing. Been sorting out loads of other stuff recently - hubs, stub axles, gearboxes....... I've still not made my mind up if it's all staying tbh mate, but I just need to get it running and go from there.

Bigger plenum with increased volume and some proper lairy Mary cams - R3 maxi to be precise, and then the R3 maxi pistons. Opted for the engine build that I've got now though.

The gearbox for it is in my garage! Lol

Yes mate. I believe the length of silicone hose supplied with the rs2's was there for this reason. I was prepared to try a different route just to be different mate.

No it's the silicone hose that joins the air filter to the tb that I'm on about with induction length mate.

It was more to do with the mapping side of things. Induction length is more of an issue than the air filter.

:wink: Yep and use a bit of flexi hose to duct the air from the scuttle.

A 1*2 maxogen would be ideal straight off the tb.

I'm not keen on the bend on the tb, but it looks ok mate. Yeah that's the one matey.

Scuttle induction is what I was going to run when I had an rs2 mate. I was going to run my v6 airbox straight off the throttle body, then a length of flexible hose coupled to the williams/16v scuttle induction scoop. Not sure if it would fit, or work for that matter, but it's certainly a good...

Difficult one that mate. The ph1 shafts are shorter, the cup shafts are unique to the 172 cups and I think the 172/182 shafts are potentially the same.

Thanks. It's got to be right mate - if that means it takes years to complete, then so be it. Fire risk as well imo.

Excellent thread revival skills! :smiley:

The solenoid is located on the top of the charcoal canister mate. It just pulls out basically. Leave the wiring connected and cut the pipes. Mine just vent to atmosphere and I have no issues with the tank pressurising etc. The charcoal canister feed pipe is rubber at the inlet end - where it...