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Ok buddy. Leave it with me and I'll have a scan through some pinouts.

http://www.optimiz-access.fr/durites-aviation-clio-2-rs-etrier-clio-3.html

Fluid wise I run motul RBF. Good stuff and not all that expensive either.

You need the crank locking pin and the horseshoe to check the timing is correct. The manual you've been sent should cover everything else, but needless to say, if the locking pin goes in and the horseshoe won't, the timing is out. It pretty much is a case of removing the 2 caps as you've already...

Grey interior and red cage would work very well! Have you considered RB cage and wheels? Always looks good with black bodywork imo!

Yeah I've done it mate. Definitely worthwhile doing if you want to save the weight of a pack of rizlas! Lol! If it's a dedicated track car that will one day become a race car, just leave it all as is until it's reached the point where every gram counts towards laptimes. Then, make up a full...

Of course! That's another reason why I've got my YouTube channel! Lol! Wiring scares everyone mate it seems. Even time served lads that work with me are scared of it! The reality of it is, most of the sensors you have only need 2 wires ~ a + and a - (analogue), then throw a signal wire in to...

As promised a bit of progress! Not done much recently as I've had other things going on in my life that are substantially more important than anything car related. The loom is now around 98% completed. All that's left to do is crimp the new terminals on to the new wiring, put it in the correct...

Lol it's been longer than a week hasn't it?? I'll see what I can dig up for a bit of an update as the loom has progressed.

Battery impact gun for the bottom pulley bolt, but it needs to be a good 'un. Alternatively you could put a few old flywheel bolts in the end of the crank, slide a lever bar in between them, then get someone else to loosen the crank pulley bolt. I'll be honest though, I normally loosen them...

The 197 head is actually a pretty good design and the valves are big enough to flow the figures, so we shall see where it gets me! I'll have a look and see what I can find out for the mtx box. Jc5 wise, your talking around £100 to do the Megane 5th gear swap, and another £1525 to do the...

@Daniel maybe able to offer some guidance?

Well I think realistically 230hp is unrealistic! Lol! And that goes for my engine as well tbh! A good mate of mine has staked his hp claim/guesstimate at 22_hp for mine, so we shall see I suppose. I can find out what went into the mk5 rs2k's to get the claimed hp figure as one of my mates is a...

I might be able to help you out with this, but I'll need you to let me know what pin positions your original tps wiring go into at the ecu. Very easy to do if you have a multimeter and do a continuity test to bell each individual wire. Not so easy if you don't as you have to rely on checking...

Well thanks for taking the time to read through it all! There's a bit of waffle and b****cks tbf, so we'll done! Lol! Hoping to get it mapped before the year is out tbh, so not long for you to wait. Wiring is far easier than people imagine it tbh. Couple of gearbox jobs?? What on mate?

Yeah that's fair enough mate. I think if it was me, I'd have gone 1*2 inlet and exhaust cams, or possibly 1*2 exhaust with a 197 inlet cam. If you have the full lift/duration specs, I can put you in touch with an extremely clever man that knows s**t loads about cams for turbo motors. Oh and...

Just as an FYI, you'll get more inlet advance using a 197 dephaser pulley. Also, would it not be more worthwhile running a 1*2 exhaust cam instead of the 197 item? It's a real minefield speccing cams for turbo motors!

Whatever the shortest ones are that they do mate.

No problem. Yeah I run the pms stud and nut kit on mine. Good bit of kit tbf. There's another place that sells them as well. Elite something or other.

If you look on the rack (about smack bang in the middle of the car) you'll see there's 2 upright fittings. These are the 2 that require the bridge pipe. If your original pipes are there, you can cut them and leave a bit of a hose tail to them, then just connect a piece of hose between the 2...

Definitely don't go more than 10mm as it'll ruin the scrub geometry. I personally would go for the 5mm option as it'll still keep the scrub geo sensible. There's a lad on here that sells the spacers - M.A.D and he's in the traders section. 5mm spacers will still work with standard bolts as...

To bridge it is a piece of piss mate. Does it have the standard pipe work still on it? If so, is it still full of fluid? Personally I would be tempted to leave it as it currently is. If it's clearly been working ok, then I'm not sure I'd bother wasting my time.

Ha ha ha! I had fg doors for mine but sold them on. Just couldn't be arsed with the faff of getting it all painted. Weight saving though benefits all areas!

Well I've seen the videos of you and @Fraser.J. so I reckon that it could lead to some 12 bore action between the 2 of you! Lol! Keep em coming! Makes for good watching!

So does a 12 bore with the right cartridges. Lol

Yeah no problem at all mate.

Pin 6, 14 and 75 if it's load potentiometer or, pin 7, 17 and 82 if it's the motorised potentiometer. I'd need to double check on my loom first though to be 100%

A bit of machining, and yes I can still get them done.

Roll centre kit? Yes. He's got ph1 toms old setup

No mate you need to strip the rack down to access the internals. Don't blank the rack - it causes a pressure build up inside the rack and it WILL lock your steering.