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There's a seal that's about smack bang in the middle of the rack that's there to stop fluid transfer between the halves of the steering rack. That's been removed and the area that the seal sits in has been grooved to allow the air to move.
The grease is packed in at the rack and pinion end, and also there's some inside the rack to help lubricate the shaft seals that are found at either end. The rack is modified internally to reduce pressure build up as well.
Mine just ran with the residual pas fluid that was left in the rack after I drained the system off.
The new rack is a modified power rack and it's filled with grease.
It's a shame to see you've decided to split the car up, but I can relate to where your coming from. I have a mk5 golf as my daily driver. Air con, iPod connection, comfy seats, comfy suspension etc etc, and there's no f**king way I'd run the cup as a daily! Lol!
No worries at all mate. If you strip the clocks down you'll be able to lift the fascia plate up enough to do the insulation tape trick. It's certainly the easiest option! You only need the clear perspex off the front and your as good as there.
Just fold the insulation tape over on itself so it...
Yeah. I don't see the point of the resistors unless you plan on refitting all the airbags at some point to return it back to a road car.
The car will start if you just remove the airbag ecu mate. The cables only weigh ounces anyway tbh, so just cable tie them up out of the way.
The airbag ecu is under the gear lever surround. If you disconnect it, yes the lights will come on the dash. That's easily rectified by the tape method though. You could remove the light as its only an led bulb.
The airbag system is on the canbus from what I can remember, but with mine removed...
I just removed the entire airbag gubbins. No f**king about with resistors then. You just need to go easy with the wire cutting that's all and not get carried away. The lights on the dash are easily rectified with some black electrical tape placed underneath the clock fascia.
Space (and not the final frontier type) will be more of an issue tbh mate with an m62. M45's the better option off a copper s (later ones have Teflon coated rotors) as its slightly easier to package due to size, but it also gives you the option to drive the alternator off the other end of it...
I'll be honest mate, if the oil pressure warning light came on and the engine isn't knocking I'd be tempted to say the oil pressure switch is your issue tbh. In these cases, if the lights come on the engines fucked. I don't think I've ever known of anyone be lucky enough to turn the engine off...
Yeah it'll be rings or ring lands on the pistons mate.
They're not that bad if you use the right tools tbh. Easier to do out the car than in it though! Lol!
Nah got asked but it's the wrong time of year for me. Oh and the fact that the engine isn't mapped, it's got no loom, you get the jist...
All I'd say is take your time and ask questions if your not sure on something.
Cheers. Should be once it's finished! When that will be, God only knows. Lol
Yeah a bit of a shitter tbf! Ha ha! Sounds like mine buddy! It's not moved since last November.......perfection takes time. Lol!
I'll pm you when we are going again. :up: