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No mate I don't think it will ever be solved without resorting to cutting them away with a grinder and rubbing them properly. Mines very low so I actually get rubbing on the arch itself. The bumper bracket is the usual suspect though for most people. It can be fully removed if needed.

^^^^£500 just in bushes there!! I priced it up and found out it was cheaper to buy them as a complete wishbone! Lol

It's the same amount Morgan. I run cup racer wishbones on mine and when measured, it was identical. You could increase the caster more if you fitted cup wishbones with the cup racer uniballs on yours due to the way the cup arms are drilled. It never bothered me enough to do it though as it...

How much (roughly) would you charge to hydrodip a front grill with a Union Jack on both sides Tyler@Ultimate? Patriotic. :clap:

Yes mate.

They're all the same mate.

182 cup/cup packed/Trophy all share the same hub afaik and do indeed run a larger bearing. The 60mm bit your thinking of is the bolt spacing for the front shock absorber mounting to the hub.

^^^classic case of mismatched dampers, springs, poor geo and roll centre issues. Gaz is no good for racing imo. You need Ast sportline 2's. If you start saving for them now, they might be here in a year or 2's time. Slow boat, china, they come on it!

Are the dampers pictures the ones you have? They look like they've been modified to accept the Clio hubs instead if using the cup racer stuff.

What advice are you after in particular mate? Damper settings? Geo settings? You need to tell us what the spring rates are as well currently. Every bit of detail helps mate.

I have them fitted and use them to increase castor. Camber bolts will do the rest.

Yes mate. That's the one.

I used a proper mega fuse holder mate so can't comment on the quality of that one above. I doubt stereo equipment has the same amp draw or current flow of the charging system though so not sure I'd want to use one of them.

I'd try and get the taper matched first, but if I had no joy I'd drill it parallel mate. A parallel pin doesn't need heat treatment if it's got plenty of meat to it, but a tapered one does ideally. You'd have to have the pin machined to be close tolerance though to reduce any movement. I don't...

I'd just drill the taper out and run a straight pin in that setup mate. There's enough room to pull it up nice and tight with a nut at the top as well. Then it's just a case of the lower arms to sort.

I didn't bother on mine mate. I wire a lot of big power consuming stuff in at work and just put the fuse as close to the battery as possible.

Altering the pin to a taper would be a pain mate tbh. You're better off getting some mk2 cup racer extender pins and checking to see if the taper matches. How many splines are there in the drive flange? If they're the same as the 1*2, you could fit 182 cup hubs. The spherical joints are only...

Here you go singlespeed http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?619576-FF-Racing-s-182-Racecar-Now-it-really-won-t-get-much-better-than-this-)/page263&highlight=BIGASH It should take you to page 263.

They're in the group buy section mate and you need to be a member to see that. Have a search for BIGASH's thread mate as there's pics in there. I'll search for a link.

Re: 'Cub's Trackday Flamer - Cage etc' You or the car? TMR!! Lol

Interesting about the uprights! I'm sure something could be manufactured. I might have a look for a set of 133 uprights. Lol! You could convert to the 1*2 style hub and use the custom ball joints I use on the roll centre corrector hubs to gain track width.

I've got the bearing kit - great bit of kit! Stiffening kit will be put on eventually.

You will definitely see an improvement from the ast's mate. Diffs ain't so bad if you know where to go. ;) YHPM

The beams are also chocolate and do flex/deflect. The pure motorsport stiffening kit will reduce that a good amount and in theory, your geo should remain consistent.

So is it road use and autosolos? Or something else? Your biggest improvements will come from correct suspension geo and a diff tbh mate.

Gripper? Do you want a different cw&p?

Yes mate it is, but the toe change is more noticeable than the camber change.

Yeah you should be alright then tbh as movement is not so much with those spring rates. Mines quite a bit lower than yours as well, but I have the front roll centres corrected so I can get away with it.

When you lower the rear the angle that the beam sits at is altered, so if the beam is machined with the camber and toe in mind for a set ride height it changes. Not dramatically, but it definitely changes.

Chassis legs mate - not subframe. You've got to be very very low at the front though. Mine was doing it one year when I was at the nurburgring. Whats your Ast spring rates? My kw's that were fitted were 60n, so about 335lbs. Too soft by a country mile for track work.