Search results

I'm not far from you then mate. Your welcome to have a look at my cage if you want to see the quality of the custom cages cage.

It's all down to what your comfortable with mate. I wouldn't want to put any faith in a £150 roll cage tbh. You may as well drive on track without wearing a seatbelt imo. What price do you put on something that could potentially save your life?

So do you only want a rear cage then? Look at the options available from custom cages mate. They offer various clubman kits. Custom cages can profile all the additional tubes for you as well. The basic cl4 kit comes in at about £500 I think, then you need someone that can fit it and weld it in...

^^^^^Proper climbing frame!!

​Agreed. It's a custom cages cage that I've got in my car and the fit was nigh on perfect tbh.

They're too short mate for cup. Try looking on this thread for the correct part number of a pattern part that's suitable on a cup. Genuine Renault ones for a cup are about 332mm long. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?675576-possible-cheaper-inner-track-rod&highlight=Track+rods

I'll be able to confirm later as I have 2 genuine Renault ones to fit.

You may find that running a small amount of toe in also works better as well mate. It's all down to the alteration of the scrub radius from standard when using spacers.

If you used the proper string method it should be pretty accurate tbh mate. I'm lucky enough to have my own set of Dunlop tracking gauges, camber gauge and corner weight scales.

Mines got an smi on it. Never seen a Rs that has a trw one fitted tbh.

Just get arms for an smi rack. That's the only one I've seen on the 1*2's. Failing that look at the steering rack and you'll find the original sticker with the part number on.

You can buy the tools to replace them off eBay mate. The type I've used before is called 'wrack wrench' and they're definitely available on eBay. About £35 iirc.

None. It's either the steering arms or the track rods that are knackered. Worthwhile checking the lock nut for the track rod adjuster is tight as well.

Unless I'm mistaken, isn't that white plug usually located in the engine bay relay/fuse box? If so I'd say its hardly weather proof at all tbh. It's protected from the elements to some extent by the fuse/relay box. Or am I mistaking it? Either way I'm sure it'll be fine in a race car.

Tbh unless your taking tyre temp readings its pretty pointless adding more camber as there's no way you will know if you've made any improvements. How is the car behaving? Are you suffering from understeer? What toe settings are you running front/rear? I'm just trying to get an idea of where...

Re: Grey With Trinkets, Russ' 29th RS Clio Tbf when I met the guy I thought he was a bandit.

Yes mate you need a cup master cylinder and the compensator valve that's fitted in the rear axle area.

Impressive work as always kenny!

Have you considered running an oil cooler on the gearbox? I had to do that with my old Quaife straight cut box to keep it reliable.

^^^are they genuine cup racer brake ducts? They appear to fit very well!

As a starting point go for 2" negative and around 10' minutes toe out. Be aware though, this is all driver specific. You tailor the way the car feels to your driving style and what you are comfortable with. There's no definitive 'put x amount of negative camber on and x amount of toe out, and...

I'd be getting the alignment checked as a starting point as well tbh. You want toe out on the front. That helps to reduce the understeer, and should cost no more than £35 to have set!

EFA my friend! :o Flol!

This is correct what tony is saying mate.

Morgan do you know how many splines there are on the inner of the cv joint out of interest???

As swede cup has said, n/s and o/s shafts mate. They're original cup shafts that I've measured as well. See what I mean about them being anyhow!! Lol

As you've already said yourself mate, it's all dependant on the level of repair. I'd have no issues buying a car that's previously had belt failure either, in fact I'd feel pleased that the receipts for the work were there to see, or that the failure was mentioned by the seller. Bit of a double...

Short shaft = 558 measured from face of cv joint that butts up to the rear of the hub. ​Long shaft = 697 measured in the exact same way.

I'll see if I can get them measured today and I'll post up the lengths later.

I've measured it fully from end to end mate, but uncompressed on the o/s shaft. I'll re-measure the o/s again fully compressed if you want mate and also the n/s shaft. Be interesting to compare results as I'm not entirely convinced the frenchies had dedicated parts for these cars tbh. There's...