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It took me around 4 hours to do my Clio last week. People say this is mad but it was the very first time the car had been done since 2002 and had some very bad areas.

Cheers bud. I didn't think it was worth it to be honest. I just want to ensure that any alarm I get will still use the Clio fob and looks factory. Although the UK alarms were all fitted by pikeys on a dockside anyway.

Cross the bridge when you get there bud. The other mounts will wear more rapidly but not overnight. Try tweak your OSF engine mount. Undo the four bolts, pry the engine back so the rubber touched the back of the mount and re-tighten. I don't think vibration will reduce TBH. If you want to...

The tops do pop off, give it a go. A saw would be the easiest option.

I've been thinking about an alarm of some description for some time. Now as I understand it, the factory fit CAT2 immobiliser can be upgraded to CAT1 status. Which option would be the best value for money and what sort of figure are we looking at. Ideally i want to still only have the...

100 is just shy of 5k so sounds right.

Just cut your old gear knob off if you have a replacement. A lot of hassle to remove it without damage.

Well said, but the hot hatch began with the mk1, hence the over rated comment. Still nice cars but all round performance isn't up to todays standards.

He would have been dealt a good beating. They're lardy as and slightly over rated IMO.

Not legal on RS's IIRC. Daft really.

Sorry to hijack. What happened to the spacers Chris?

Ha, I'd love to drive over but I start a new job next week and it would look a little poor if I took 3 days off in my first month. I've asked the seller to enquire but I wondered if anyone knew a reputable courier.

Does anyone know a decent, cheap courier who could be used to ship a 17'' alloy and tyre to the UK? It sounds like madness but the wheel I need for my girlfriends Alfa is on the 'bay for pence at the mo'. A rim and tyre combo in the UK would be around £220.

So the line is free at the caliper end? The union at the chassis end will undo allowing you to pull the copper pipe away. Can the copper pipe be pulled away? The hose is crimped around the end to hold it in place in the bracket. If you twist with mole grips, the hose should then be free...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=212040&highlight=acoustic

H+R springs and spacers?

To be honest, you will struggle to see a massive increase with any of the filter options. The Viper has a small surface area from what I remember and they do suffer from heat soak. It may be worth taking the Viper off and trying your standard air box with a panel filter and uprated feed...

Top nut? Do you mean the caliper end or the other? Once undone, the caliper end will simply pull out. The other end just needs tweek a little to allow the copper line to be removed then you simply twist the end of the hose with a pair of mole grips to release the crimps.

I wouldn't bother personally. In order for you to actually get the trumpet to the lower grille, the CAF will be effectively doubling back on itself, drastically reducing it's performance. IIRC, the best way to 'feed' a Viper is to leave the CAF just short of the mouth. I would then either...

Corner weighting does exactly what it says on the tin. It counters the natural imbalance of the vehicle using ballast. See here: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/012005/understanding-corner-weights.php

Agreed, they're a good spring for the price.

So what exactly is different? surely just the bolt holes/spacings which can be re-drilled or is the under side of the seat completely different?

Anyone?

Ay, it was me. I bought it on the off chance a mate might want to fit it his 172. If he doesn't like it, I'll whack it back on.

Possibly not. The extra noise on the silenced item could have actually been the resonance around the silencer.

BIN only £20+ £3 P+P. Looks like a 172 item to me as there are no etchings on the top of the knob. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLIO-V6-GEARKNOB_W0QQitemZ250097205569QQcategoryZ10410QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The best method is to remove the plastic bung on the back of the door below the lock. Compress the two lugs while sliding the strip towards the back of the car. Once free, the strip should slide off easily. Then it is simply a case of removing the badge.

So are the ones near me, that's why they're self serve. Some are really dangerous. Cars stacked 3 high etc. I've witnessed cars falling from the top of stacks before now. TBH, the majority of cars cannot be accessed as the nature of the stacking means that the doors/bonnet/boot cannot be...

Is that the sound of the Ban stick.

You need a self serve jobbie. Plenty about by me, you must have one somewhere near.