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How deep are they, deep enough for you nail to catch? Through the clearcoat into the basecoat ? If not they will be removed by using a better polishing than nasty old fashioned T Cut. If so only a repaint/ touch up and wet flat will sort them. Trying to disguise them will never work.

Not needed if your claying using QD.

The Super Resin Polish will strip of the coloured layer the T Cut Colour Fast has left behind. Personally I would junk the T-Cut Colour and get a decent polish to correct the defects rather than try and cover them up. The Clay Bar is used after washing before polishing.

Someone must have told her 3 inches was 3 foot in the past !

Try the same move in the Megane and how much space you did not have - still you will have a Clio sized car again be it with and a cracked panoramic roof ;)

Knowsit ! :eek:

Colour ? Avoid buses in it ;)

Worth a read, (bear in mind this is from the manufacturer so expect bias) -more powerfull is there main selling point: http://autopia.org/forum/ultimate-detailing-machine/88388-ultimate-detailing-machine-project.html

Do we have an idea where in the showground the stand is Emma ? Cheers Rich

I have only ever used the Jeffs after SRP or Klasse AIO and then topped with a Carnuba, the later seemed to define the look. Jeffs AGT alone untopped just seemed clear and wet in appearance.

At the moment that is your only option, as the UK machine still has no fixed release date after the test versions where not very well received.

Depends on the local office, some do - I have never had any problems in the Worcester one doing it there and then. But some don't reading posts on here.

What about the Jeffs Carnuba Jett vs Blitz ?

As long as you don't use the brush you will be fine! Detergents in them can be quite harsh on waxes/sealants, ones with spot free rinses are handy though.

Can I buy in Bulk ?

Nice work - You must have given it welly to kill the SFX pads, out of all my Cutting Pads the SFX ones I have are the ones that survived! Polishing or finishing pads are fine for SRP depending what you have used before it and how much correction you want it to give. The machine takes SRP to...

Clean Your Car and Clean and Shiny mostly for me these days, but do use Serious Performance and Polished Bliss from time to time. Most in this thread are good - CLICK ME

You should have looked harder there are loads! But yeah correct on the second part ! Don't want a derv though lol

Vibrations seem to vary from machine to machine, I find it fine tbh. It does have its limitations when it comes to the paint correction ability. Vibrations where present in the UK test machines IIRC, and the cable was to short, not sure on how it is power wise

I save the MFs up until I have a big enough load, other wise I hand wash them.

No wont harm the screen, I use whatever glass cleaners I have about.

The UDM is the guy who runs Autopia's clone of the PC, was meant to address the issues the PC has - underpowered and vibrates to much.

All in the prep baby ;) Wax is the final 10% of the look if that. To be honest the individual nuances can only be seen in the flesh.

Without spending some money on Pads and Polishes you wont get the best out of it. Menzerna Polishes would be my choice but they have the steapist learning curve, but there results are spot on when mastered. When I started out I went for the Poorboys SSR range which are dead easy to use. The...

Neither the PC or UDM will damage your paint if used properly, the UK spec UDM seemed to have issues, in theory its greater correction power should be an advantage but the jury is out on it. The PC is a proven product.

John at C&S said his was still working after a year washing his two cars weekly. I am careful with how much I use 20 litres of water applied by watering can rather than hose it down wastefully with the filter on the hose. I am not sure how durable the Onyx is, my mate is using it on his daily...

Most waxes I have tried bar the Zymol and Swissvax ones can not maintain the just applied look after wash, it is the main benefit to them IMO. Everything else I have tried seems to fail, CG 50/50, P21s, Souveran, Clearkote CMW and Nattys etc. The Onyx though seems to maintain it's appearance...

I have not tried the Petes 53 but found that with the CG 50/50 too. The Onyx looks as good after a few washes as it does when first applied even without QDing. If a wax can't do that I am not really interested in it.

Looks like a Submarine, puts me off my food !

40 or 50 here depending on how dirty they are. I use Woolite as it seems to keep them as good as new. Fabric Softener as siad is a no no.