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Oh dear, the pulleys are floating IIRC and you'll need the correct timing tools to lock the cams at the flywheel end, the crank at the front of the block and the pulleys at the pulley end.

Nice, just one last thing, you do have A/C don't you? It's not a silver cup?

Bite their hand off. Will be gen stuff too :cool:

If that's including VAT then that's a good price

Do you want to keep the AC?

As above, sounds like you don't have any power assistance at all. Check the level and report back.

hmmm, equal length shafts? The normal shafts are almost this setup anyway, the part that sits on the sun wheel is a cup that the shaft spider bearing sits in, it's not bolted to the block but sounds like it does the same job

LOL, completely forgot about the hub nut :hail: Easiest to do the hub nut first when the wheels are on the ground, centre cap off the alloy and get at it there. What's this bearing on the back of the block?

LOL God knows what this is off then, doesn't really matter as it doesn't fit the holes in the inlet, just wandered what I'd been sent. Back to the search for a ph1 rail :(

Drain the gearbox oil, remove the three bolts holding the NS driveshaft gaitor to the box, remove the rollpin holding the OS shaft to the gearbox sun wheel. Remove the lower strut to hub bolt and this should be enough to get them out through the wheel arch.

Only numbers I have on it are 9618013380 :dead: K4M?

Sounds like the ecu isn't seeing the coolant temp or the thermostat is stuck open. Check the wiring to the coolant temp sensor and also check that the top radiator hose gets as hot as the others! When the coolant temp is low the ecu stops the car revving past 6200rpm

Yep progressive tightening, they are new bolts. What's 55nm in ft/lb's?

Are they deffo 55nm as I've snapped 2 tightening to that!

I've got a JC5 130 without the speedo hole or worm drive, at home with pretty much every tool available is it possible to change casings for a knackered JC5 with the hole and also to fit the worm drive part? Anything to look out for flying out when I open up the casing? I wanna...

Yeah they've got some green stuff near the head on the thread. I'll whack some on aswell just to be sure

Wow, I've got new bolts so no need for thread lock I take it? Also with the crank seal should I put a bit of sealant on it when I fit it?

Yep :D Thanks for that matey

Really? :eek:

How do you counter hold the flywheel to stop it spinning?

Valver fuel rail can be modded to fit, need diff injectors though from memory

Find yourself a good condition 172 cup jc5 129 with the bolt in diff! They come up for sale on here quite often

is this a ph2 rail? If so can it be modified to run an fpr?

What dash loom you using?

The reason the valves get damaged is because they smash into the top of the piston

Its a threaded hole that the bolts go into, no nuts on top

£350 ish for a rebuild

Just drive it until it gets to the point where you need to change it, start saving now and get a proper Renault re-con box.

Should all be the same, take the starter off and hook it straight upto a battery, see if it pushes out first then turns

Re: PH1 172 Track Car, abit special *ITB update* Why have you blocked up the top hole? Aesthetics?