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Driveshaft c/v joints will likely be fooked. Get 2 new or s/h shafts and that should cure it.

Yep, a 16v or williams exhaust will fit your RSI.

Right now, Frictions right - stop this arguing folks! I blame AcID ZeRO...it's his fault, he started it... ;-p

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Its at the back of the engine block, about half way up the engine. You'll need to jack the car up, take drivers wheel off and then reach up to feel for it.

http://www.retro-renault.com/index.php

For a 2ltr BE it depends...they range from 250 right up to 500 depending on whether you get a williams or megane one. Fitting will probably be the same again. As for tuning the 1.8 its all or nothing really...to get anything noticable you need to do cams/headwork all in one go which will cost...

No, indicators will cancel fine. The steering wheel has a fork that goes into the column to cancel them but what it fits into is a plastic attachement on which you can adjust up or down...likely you won't need to bother though...

Taking the wheel off is not a bodge! Its a fact that that most mk1's come from the factory with the steering wheel not 100% straight. It's also a fact that when the steering lock goes on, the steering wheel is never 100% straight. Chances are that kwikfit did it right, probably with the...

Yes thats true but in reality you're not going to notice it...the only time you use full lock is when parking and TBH a few degrees here and there won't make much difference.

Yes they do; dogbone (rear engine mount) is £27quid and they do front brake hoses for 6.50ish

If he just wants the steering wheel straight it is! Look at it this way - 30mins DIY to fix yourself or a load more time back at that bunch of cowboys arguing wether or not they were doing it right and whether or not they should do it again FOC - i know which i'd do. Shifting the wheel...

Think it was 212bhp but IIRC that was a completely standard engine...no cams/inlet work or owt...good base for futher mods i think.

I'd have done it for you mate but i'm up in Aberdeen...bit far to drive!

PAS makes no difference and its an easy job; disconnect battery for about 15 mins, then undo the bolts on the rear of the wheel holding the airbag on. Once thats done, ease it out of the wheel (it's all enclosed so your not going to have a big bag flapping about) and unclip the airbag ribbon...

Its possible you've a problem with the rack causing the vibration but thats definately not the cause of the steering moving 3"'s without turning the wheels. That is definately the column and i'll bet money on it still being there when you get the car back off them. Check it yourself...pull up...

Aye, engine for 150 or less if you goto a proper scrappy. I manged to get an entires head complete with everything (cams inlet, fuel rail etc) for 20quid...the BE wouldn't have been much more. Best of luck tho

Well if you're going to turbo it, just stick the entire volvo engine in...less hassle.

Yes, as long as it fits over the viper neck. However, I think you'll have difficulty finding a 8V silicone elbow tho hence why i said use a 172 item and clamp it down onto your 8V TB, possiblly using reduction rings of some sort.

What, the piping? You'd ideally want the same piping that connects the viper to a 172 TB - if you can get that you're sorted but if not get up to your scrappy as get something that looks similar. As for reduction rings, something thats in between the viper diameter and the 8v would be great -...

You'll get it to fit...they only area of difficulty you'll have is matching the neck diameter of the 172 viper to that of you're 8v as they'll differ in size. ...not by that much IIRC from my megane. However, you get round that with some piping and rubber reduction rings on the 8v TB.

Point to note is that the 1.8 RSI engine is an evolution of the 1.7 8v engine so any 1.7 parts will fit (possibly with some work). This means; volvo 1.7 turbo parts, renaultsport 1.7 single seater engine parts (i.e inc dry sump etc, cam, balanced engine)

http://www.catcams.be do cams for them...about 300quid from QEP motorsport which is the only UK supplier. Beyond that, you can also bolt a 2ltr BE on from a laguna for extra torque...direct fit. Unfortuanely, you can't get exhaust manifolds for them that i know off the shelf though.

Fair enough - it though it might have been the usual column u-joint wearing and causing serious play. 300quid for a new rack is excessive tho...www.infinicar.com will probably do you a good one for less than half that which i'd be tempted to do as fitting is a pain and will cost...you'll be...

No more trouble with these than any other car - if it snaps its just down to the service schedule not being followed. I'd just do what edde says...if it breaks a new engine is a max of 150quid. I'll have a spare complete head for one of these going begging mid febuary if the worsr happens...

I take it you've checked its not the column thats at fault rather than the rack as a lot of garages misdiagnose steering problems? Column is cheap as chips to repair (sub 100 quid) and 9 times out of 10 thats what people really need. In any case, fitting 17's and lowering ain't gonna affect...

Yep they would. Plenty of people run lowering springs inside the std 16v shocks without any probs whatsoever....they don't really wear out in the same way that other clio shocks do with lowering springs...very hard wearing.

You'll get about 50/60mm using shocks and springs...lower will need coilovers

You'll see a gain yes, it'll be more eager to rev as has been said. Be careful tho...decat on a std exhaust can blow the packing out of the rear silencer...this will either make it rather loud and a bit more powerful or else worst case feck the thing and restrict the flow.

Why don't you want to get just springs? With good (or better still new) std shocks the ride is excellent