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Well i have a complete cylinder head waiting to have headwork done by Chris H off retro-renault (the head needs to come off anyway to fit the cam so may as well) at a VERY reasonable price...i'll say again VERY reasonable. I'd expect that with that and the cam to get about 75-80bhp. Basically...

Well i see your point...i suppose if you start with more power/larger capcity then gains will be proportional. I'd still side with GTT for the cheapness/proven factor by credit where its due...if you do well with the volvo lump then your opening up more options to everyone. :-) Incidentally...

For 24 miles i'd drive it...just don't put any excess strain on it from reving etc. Have you not got a closer garage though...its hardly a job for renault? BTW if any of you 1.2 8v DIET peeps fancy some extra power i have a catcams fast road cam for sale thats still boxed and unused...offers...

Remove PAS for an easy 5bhp.

I wasn't, i'm just saying that the GTT engine isn't as bad as everyone makes out and is a far better option for tuning. I agree, it is stone-age but just because somethings old doesn't make it inferior. As for everyone who has a GTT wanting it faster well yeah but you could say that about any...

Theres no real way of knowing if your cambelt is going to snap other than knowing its outside its service schedule...i.e it won't make a noise....if your worried about it i'd get it changed though. Aux belt is different as it could need adjusted, cambelt idlers/tensions could be squeaking if...

Woah - a whole forum dedicated to them!! Anyway I have to disagree on the GTT being s**t; you know as well as i do the rep they have for blowing up after idiot owners misuse them...the same as any other engine...the fact that your volvo lump doesn't have this is smply down to the fact that...

Could be the aux belt, could be the PAS pump or could be the cambelt idler/tensioners. Any of these will relate to throttle as they'll turn faster will more gas. Safe enough to drive though

And how many of those are kicking about?

Yeah but the minute you bolt the 1.7 head on it becomes a complete unknown again due to the compression ratio/part issue i said above doesn't it? The other thing to remember is that if you dump a complete 1.7 t engine you've a good RSI lump to flog on and recoup costs...or worst case put back...

Just put the entire 1.7t lump in - its not worth the hassle (or risk) if altering the compression ratios etc by mixing and matching with the RSI BE.

The volvo lump is the very same 1.7 but turbod. The 1.7 is a poor engine tho...even ben r says so. Stone age design...so is the GTT i suppose...but with zero tuning info and parts available. Fair enough buying a cheap volvo lump and firing it in but for tuning? Stick with the GTT...its a...

Better off with GTT or 16v lump...1.7 is shite for tuning.

Was this the kawa green one? It did take a bit of flaque last time but i liked it :-)

Well its my site so if i gave you my username/password you'd have admin privelages! Just register tho...only takes 2 minutes and will be of future use as its got most 16v exploded parts diagrams etc on it...

I'm having the same done soon. Assembling a parts list at http://www.f7power.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3420 if you fancy adding to or spotting anything amiss or need help?

Another quick question, can you tell me if you used the 16v mounts during the conversion? Reason i ask is that theres mention of the phase 3 subframe being a different shape causing the sump to catch on it preventing fitting? Apparently 16v mounts may lift it enough otherwise it'll be a hammer...

Nah m8, its the caliper carriers themselves that you get with the breaks that sort the spacing...nowt to do with the hub carrier. I have 16v hub carriers on mine with the 1.2 breaks still on. All mk1 clio hub carriers are the same basic shape (inc the caliper mounting holes) aside from the strut...

172 front bumper...should be a bit deeper, plus the ph1 172 alloys

Yep, already thought about the throttle and speedo cables...fuel lines shouldn't be a problem either - trip to halford for some piping and its done. I may send you the odd PM if i may once i start....cheers once again tho.

Excellent m8 - you've been a massive help! :-)

I'd bolt a 2ltr BE on first...you'll get one for under 100quid...more torque!

Excellent! Can i ask though, as as RSI yours will have had the ignition coil already in place...mines doesn't....it should just be case of getting a 16v one, bolting it on and plugging the loom in (i think thats all it connects too)? Beyond that i guess you've answered everything...did you...

That sounds good news then! :-) TD172 - I notice you've a 'phase 3/williams hybrid' listed on your profile...is that as in a williams engine in a phase 3 shell. If so you must have done what i'm hoping too...any problems you can forsee? I'm hoping its a staright forward case of dropping the...

Contact www.infinicar.com for a second hand shaft...Paul might be able to sort you a used hub with low milage/good bearing too.

Reason i ask is i'm thinking of sticking a cheap 1.8 16v in (instead of cam'ing/headwork'ing the 1.2)...i'm bothered that if i do, the 1.2 Immobiliser will arse things up and prevent the 1.8 firing up. I assume the rest of the wiring will be ok for the tranplant...

^

Speak to Lunner.

As i understand it, my DIET 1.2 8v has an immobiliser built into it which lives under the centre console. Ideally i'd like to remove it and simplifiy the wiring on the car but can anyone tell me if its tied to the ECU in anyway? Also, i only got one key with the car, is it supposed to have...

Aye, all mk1s do it round about the edges of the sunroof...usually at the rear. Nowt you can do really...taking the sunroof off and replacing the roof-to-frame seal will likely cure it...it did on mine...