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What...is it a phase 2 valver shes got or something as she didn't say? In that case, not just stick a phase 1 ECU in for 30quid and loose the remote locking...or until you can get a complete plip/receiver from matbrown/infinicar? I was always unconvinced about how secure the std system is...

Won't need a whole new locking system...worst case it'll be the reciever board plus 2 plips but try drying/cleaning it as said. What kind of immobiliser and clio is it? I'd be tempted just to rip it out completely and save some cash...

Yes, thats the corrosion i was on about...try giving it a clean and it may work or worst case get a new (s/h) reciever board and matching plip fobs. Of course, the annoying fact is that this now means you´ve leak somewhere...either sunroof or aerial...unlucky!

The 175/60 sounds about right to me for your car...same as mk1 RSI wheels and typical renault...fit an odd size as standard. 175/65 generally get put on instead of the 60´s as they´re cheaper and approximately the same size.

Sport Rader is VW alloys IIRC...so basically any golf/polo or seat with the same stud pattern i´d say.

No, i think you´re thinking of Ecotek valves mate. PBV´s can iron out flatspots and can compensate for worn components due to the increased pressure....you can also fit them on any EFI car - turbo or otherwise. As i said, don´t bother unless you can get one bought and fitted cheaply or if...

As long as they´re of a megane 1 (i.e. NOT they fat assed new ones) they´ll fit fine. Centre bores are the same and all mk1´s have an offset around ET35.

Kindof agree with some of the statements above...they´re defo not worth 80quid and on a decent performance engine the std item is more than up to the job. If you´re actually trying to alter the fueling on the cheap they are useful but again, if you´ve the money, get the ECU remapped.

Thats strange your running them...i´ve only heard of that size being on mk1 RSI alloys...it is an odd kind of profile though anyway. I wouldn´t go for 175/65s TBH as this will increase your rolling circumferance and affect performance....185/55/14´s are reasonably common though and will...

No point in the manifold - the std 16v item is damn good. Don´t bother with the FSE - let the ECU do what it´s suppossed to do. Beyond that, either 2ltr the BE or cams and headwork on the 1.8 BE...1.8 is all or nothing if you´re doing anything so be prepared to spend....

Outside the above options theres nothing thats going to be that much quicker thean the RT you've got. You could try a megane 1.6 RT...basically a bored out RT engine but it's MPI you'll be able to remap to a worthwhile degree if any modifications are done. Then again, if you're doing that...

No, the bearing is a complete unit and only one per hub carrier. You can bash the hub out using a socket but to get the bearing out really needs a press or some kind of puller

Oh, if you can't do that a cheats way is to keep the thottle butteryfly open a little all the time...to do this, find the throttle body again and you'll see a small bolt which can be screwed in/out and force making the butterfly stay open...it'll be fairly obvious. Try option one first though.

They can't adjust it. Its basically just a small valve on the throttle body that opens to allow enough air in for the engine to idle but over time they get cogged with s**t (i.e oil from the the breather return) and cause similar problems to what your describing. Solution is to take it off...

ISCV could need a clean.

True.

Does your car have a sunroof? Take the reciever out and check for water over the IR window....also check for water corrosion over the circuit board.

Couldn't you get round the induction temp issue buy fabricating an airbox over the TB's with an inlet to one or two sides (i.e. around the std radiator). fair enough, its not ideal and you've still the trumpt length issue but might be a workround? That RS team had something similar on their TB'd...

Get to a proper tool place...up in Aberdeen we have Gibb Tools...down with you'll have a machinemart or similar? Halfords/B&Q won't do a suitable deep neck ring spanner...

^^yes, exactly. As long as the spacing is the same you'll be fine...most 1.4's tend to be 54mm but 1.2's seems to be a grey area...54mm or 52mm...generally 52mm from what i've seen as they use weaker bearings. Fitting a new hub won't affect tracking as they're the same basic shape outside...

No no no! 19 16v vent...i have one ready to go on...

Missed out the mk1s! Early valvers had RS trim so i'd say you could consider them and the williams RS models...

Still got the cold air ducting to put on...of course wether the car goes fast enough for to channel anything through it is another story! lol Theres a definate improvement in driveabilty with the open cone on anyway...it'd struggle to rev before...now i can easily max in each gear...45 in...

Yeah but thats a completely different engine from the one above and in that case i'd agree, std airbox is best. However, for the one above, open cone is far superior

It'll fit and it's just the headlights you need....nowt else

They're all rubbish compared to the std airbox and far more expensive. Just look at the area the std filter give compared to a viper or similar its a fair bit more...

Arghh, ecoteks and leccy superchargers - my eyes are burning now Ben!

Hmmm...it may be that after installing this your ecotek may need readjusting as it may be leaning the mixture too far thereby causing ECU problems. PMSL.

^^Good spot! Yeah, 14's are the smallest you'll get over 16v brakes.

Are you buying?!