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Yes, that twin engined R5 had a lot spent on it as both engines were pumping out about 250bhp each. I remember asking how much and it was something like 10k in total. Hopever, knowing how much it costs to a get a R5 lump to 250bhp you can say for sure that the structural stuff (actually mouting...

Sorry but no, twin engined will be WAY over that even if you could get labour for free...if i said what EP spent on their twin engined R5 youd cringe and they did all their own work so no labour costs! TBH TBs are the only sensible option in reality if youre wanting to get/get close to that...

Polished was an option.

yes

Big deal you get a guarantee but what to go wrong with suspension bushes, lights, radiators etc. Ill pay GSF less thanks and save some money rather that pay over the odds for a guarantee i probably wont use...or wouldnt want to use.

Some of the stuff GSF do is genuine reno gear.

Nick Hill could do it.

Iceberg silver....mmmm!

Tsk!

^^Yeah, and if youre going for williams front track (which you mentioned before) youll have major scrubbing with 205s when lowered.

Theres a lot more than several m8 who say it dont - its most of the site. In fact i can nearly name all of the blinkered usual suspects that are for the ecotek...theres that few! You, Taxi Two, the chap above...err...maybe another few...says it all.

Have you ever read ecoteks installation instructions? Honestly theyre so bloody vague its unreal...IIRC something along the lines of "turn until theres a small whistling at idle" - mean FFS if it actually worked its more dependant on the installers hearing or definition of a noise rather than...

You cant comment on fuel comsuption?? So why spend the last page saying that it does work if you cant say for sure?

Well before you go, can you explain to me how it magically works on your festy ztec and no other car that anyone on her has tried them on? Ford specific now are they??

Have you even read the posts above??? Most people have tried them them, as i have, and found they dont work...theyve been proven not to work by TRADING STANDARDS and like someone said, if they were that good, they wouldnt be selling for 60quid and they would probably (in some shape or form) be...

Ive looked into this - youll need everything the 1.8 16v boys will need to do the front (see my previous pinned topic) plus 16v hub carriers and bearings (as this is what gives the extra width over the RT and lesser models (i.e williams is widest at front, then 1.8 16v then RTs etc). As for...

I think there are loom differences, tho it depends on age rather than wether a loom is 1.8 or 2ltr

Are you mad!!! Any phase 1 parts looks better than the equivalent phase 2 stuff...well all except the front grille...phase 2 stuff looks soft IMO.

dont think so

Wont run rich as decat is after the lambda (i.e no bearing on fuelling). Likewise, youll get no gain with an early precat ECU...if it worked that is

3.5 bar i about the right pressure IIRC...but its been a while

Way i look at it is theyre 100quid...at the cheapest youll be approx £50 to set it up and for what, maybe 1-2bhp increase and some cured flat spots? I can think of better things to waste my money on as im sure you lot can. As for being able to feel an improvment with them...well...maybe...if...

Supposed to iron out flat spots, add a little more bhp. I personally dont think they work well and are probably more hassle thena theyre worth. Better with a remap...

IIRC; Mount the device somewhere close to the fuel rail, Remove the OE fuel regulator from the end of the fuel rail and repalce with the adapter part that comes with the PBV, Connect the small vacume pipe to the top of ther PBV and the other end to the appropraiate connection of the metail...

Yes, of course but even a standard williams setup is better than a coilovered 1.8 setup is what im saying

Wouldnt bother with manifold - std 16v is good enough. Remove the PAS is cheap to do and will net 5bhp or so plus free the engine up significantly...

PBVs are rubbish...they dont do anything a ECU remap wouldnt do better. Theres also the fact theyve got a habit of blowing fuel pipes off periodically if not checked, the fact the need setup on a RR, the fact youll have more fuel piping running accross an already very hot engine Keep your...

Id swap from 16v coilovers to a standard willy setup...like i said it really is that good and still stiff enough for normal/fast road use.

No, booting it ive seen as low as 160.

Yes; Rip the 1.2 out, Fit the PAS rack, Fit a PAS steering column (as the manual one you have atm is too short to reach the PAS rack), Fit the 1.8 engine in and connect everything up (reservoirs etc) Id post up to see if the 1.2 fuel pump will be up to the job...i think it should be as they...