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You'll need a manual rack from a lesser clio (12/1.4 etc) along with a manual column (PAS column is shorter). Beyond that you'll need to get a bracket for the alternator and a shorter AUX belt...'bondy' on here is the only person i know that does these parts. Price wise...bondy's kit is...

I don't think they will...turbines/willy wheels are fine but IIRC (from someone elses experience) using them with phase 2 vegas will require spacers to clear the rear of the spokes.

Hmmm...confusing! Anyone else?

Nothing wrong with welding it - heaps of people have done it and got through the MOT.

PM'd mate.

As above, is this doable with the std non-16v arches? Going to have some 195/45/R15 wheels slapped on with 70mm front springs...need to know if its going to tear my front wings off or not!! Thanks

P.S That bit thats still bolted into the fuel rail was the adapter i was after when i bought the PBV off you! :-)

Fcukin hell - thats a bodge and half!!!! I have a spare std fuel regulator sitting here btw...don't know how much a new one will be (would expect over 20quid anyway) but its yours for a tenner if you want...i'll even fit it for a fiver so cheaper than your garage/renault (and done properly)...

They can be of use on older cars as they'll compensate for some worn out components. The can also be of use when fitting cams without having the cash for a remap...generallly speaking you need more fuel and they'll help. However, I'd agree with not bothering with them - get a remap and let the...

Whats the score with removing the door-cards - will that get through an MOT as i seem to remember there was confusion about that?

You'll loose a far bit going back to a system with a centre box. I've had a completely straight through system and it was miles quicker than the BB system i had before (which i think may be manaufactered by scorpion?). It's not worth it...unless you can make some cash by punting it on...

No they were still SPI.

There are no Mk1 MPI 1.4 clios. There is a 1.6 8v MPI engine found in the mk1 megane and some mk2 clios...it's basically a bored out 1.4 SPI and will fit directly in...that'll be your best bet.

Definately cams next and HPs stage 2 chip (i think theyll still upgrade your existing chip for 50quid or so if you get the work done there).

Definately cams next and HPs stage 2 chip (i think theyll still upgrade your existing chip for 50quid or so if you get the work done there).

What these guys said - its to the left of the oil filter on the front of the block. Youll get to the oil filter/sensor from undernieth the front. Alternatively, take the bonnet off, slam panel off - youll then be able to pull the radiator forward enough to get access between it and the inlet...

^Rich - thats the hub carrier youre about - makes no difference to what this chap is on about....hes on about the the bit that sits inside the bearing and holds the wheel on. Johnnym - yes, all hubs are the same accross all mk1 clios (valver, RT, RSI etc).

They dont make lowering gear for the clio mate.

Speaking as someones who fire new setups of 1.8 and williams setups i have to say there is a massive difference...honestly. Its far more stable, gives far more grip...you go faster, safer basically. When i had mine done i found i was driving at least +10mph faster round some of my on the edge...

Oh it is! :-) More than a small gain...

Remove PAS, fit williams wider track, fit cams and pulley, fit flowed bug valved head

IIRC The GTT engine was a c-type lump and the only clio AFAIK that had the was the really really old 1.1s.

Ive never had any probs on XP until i built my new machine...refuses to install completely. Anyone else got it running on XP3200/SATA or similar?

No, you will definately get away with the phase 3 bonnet but it will need slight modification on the underside (IIRC basically just cutting away one of the strengthening spars to clear the inlet manifold)...DIY job...but itll defo fit saving the hassle of getting 16v everything.

Yes, you can...you wont need the wings or bonnet or anything exterior wise...just the mechanical bits

yeah...if you want EFI. If not then you can just bolt the 1.6 BE to the 1.4 Energy head and away you go...probably wont gain much power as the meg engine is only 10bhp more (with EFI) but should gain torque...likely to be in better condition too...

Theres also a 1.6 8v RT you could use...

^^Yes, thats right and its just a bored out 1.8 RSI engine as Lunner will confirm.

about 100/110bhp is relatively easy to get.

Will take a lot to get the D7F to that power level. Go with a 16v conversion or else a mod-ed 1.4 energy to keep costs down. GTT would be nice but will cost, as will 2ltr 16v. 1.8 RSI/2ltr 8v could be an option tho as theyre cheap-as-chips too...