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You should be able to drop the 1.4 engine in and swap over anything from your 1.2 that you need to remove the PAS from the 1.4 - they are both energy engines i take it? If youve got everything from the rsi then bung it in - may as well get a s/h PAS rack and column to keep it simple and gain...

Toyos are poor IMO - pretty good grip in the dry (tho ive had better for cheaper) but appalling in the wet.

I wasnt impressed with the fast road ones - TBH they seemed no better than std halfords/motor factor ones (for dust or braking perf.) yet were more expensive. Best ive had were some kevlar pads from k-tec...reasonably low dust and seem to have more bite/less fade than tarox or std pads.

Mine is 54

Tarox wear out fooking quick! If were you, get a direct line to hafords or similar because youll be phoning them for replacements before you know it!

Woah - calm down mate! Im well aware of what hillpower can do with that lump but to my knowledge they only ever did that work to one transplanted into an RT clio. In any case, you never mentioned the lumintion management in the spec above in which case im right...you wouldnt have reached 130...

^^ I also had a megane 1.6 8v - you aint gonna be gaining 40bhp with the stuff mentioned above - that RR must have over reading for definate. Anyway, if you must mess with the engine, goto http://www.catcams.be/http://www.catcams.be/ - theyll do you a cheap cam and vernier pulley that might...

Guts of day to fit, either by a garage or yourself and a mate (buy some axle stands and a large jack!). Beware the ARB nuts and clips if youre doing it...theyre hard to do up without airgun etc.

Just to throw a spanner in the works, i have a phase 3 1.2 with no front ARB yet an enclosed rear torsion bar...

Burn it out.

172 is the safe option...9 times out of ten itll be more reliable and itll be quciker out of the box. However, if money is no object and/or youre going to modify then the valver is the better car...better platform to build on...arguably better looking...cheaper to start with...easier to deal...

Best for handling is to fit the wider williams front track with coilovers. Even a standard williams suspension setup will outperform a coilovered, lowered to the floor 1.8 16v setup...its THAT much better. However, you wont be able to go as low with the williams setup as you would with the 1.8...

I had the K-tec 285mm kit on my old megane (bigger car but same calipers as clio valver) - made a massive difference IMO and looked great. In your case id say just spend a little extra and get the 4-pot as theyre not that much more and youre not going benefit from the better looks with...

Sod that - its headwork time!!! Seriously though - glad to hear youve got it sorted finally. :)

Yes it will fit. Gains are more top end as far as i know so a little diffferent from what youll get with a willy lump/2ltr BE. AFAIK itll be a little like slapping a ported/camd 1.8 setup on (as the 2ltr head has the bigger ports already and its cams are more aggressive than the 1.8 items...

Just get a 1.8 BE and keep the 2ltr head and cams. Will be cheaper and still rapid...more so than a proper 1.8 but probably not quite as a 2ltr...a good inbetween

BRUN, the ISO is one i got from Halfords (as the original was chopped off) so should have the connections stamped on the cable or, at worst, you get them off the Smartlead/Autolead website. Once youll have that youll be able to match them against a clio wiring diagram in Haynes etc if you dont...

I thought the ECU limited those engines to about 170bhp absolute max or thereabouts?

The Aux belt (i.e for the PAS pump) needs removed to do the cambelt.

Unlikely to be the rack so id say the pump - they usually make a screeching noise if theyre on theyre way out. If you havent got any excessive noise then check the belt running the pump...it could simply be loose. Wouldnt worry about the fluid coming out of the bottle as this will be a side...

So the claims of raising the limiter to 8k are lies?

As i said, im aware of how ABS works but for your ordinary bloke in the street to have as much sensitivity on the brakes as this system (i.e be able to brake absolutely as hard as possible without locking up) isnt going to happen. Therefore under hard braking, hes going stop quikcer with ABS...

How owned? Im not disputing what ABS does, im disputing that Mr Joe Public is going to able to do a better job (i.e brake quicker in any situation). LMAO *rolls eyes*

What im saying is that it would take a VERY VERY skilled driver to apply be able to brake as hard as an ABS system but without locking up. Certainly amongst the BK drive through bretheren youre not going to find anyone!

^^Bollox - the ABS system is computer controlled to stop the brakes locking up and bring the car to a halt in a short distance. Youd be hard pushed, if at all, to find a human thatll be able to do that quicker. By your arguement, stamping on the brakes and having them lock would brake...

Get a ph1 172...they look better, come in better colours, are cheaper, have toys, basically the same car...

It always depends on the valver...there a lot of bad ones out and im not meaning rust...come up against a few mint examples and theyve been dog slow too. Choosing a VTS/GTI youre more likely to get to the power youre supposedly paying for and that aside they are very good. Valver...well take a...

Id get it back before they rip you off on labour m8!

I think people always seem to assume that the turbo = noticable lag but its not always the case. As has been said, too many variables...

Its all a bit "Grease" isnt it? :p