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I'd agree with that but it's always the same people that bring this up. Doing a search for posts started by said topic owner its increasingly evident that he's obsessed about his mk1...is he proud that he bought a 150bhp 'monster' that apparently conquers everything on the road or simply making...

Ah the very man! Yep i know the clocks will need altered its just how that i need to know. I assume the wiring harness is all there so i can just plug them in and its the signal that needs altered? Do you know where would be able to do this or alternatively, is there any other mk1 clocks that...

Not really annoyed, its just irritating that a forum about clios gets clogged up with pointless mk1 vs mk2 threads...its a clio discussion forum at the end of the day so FFS discuss them instead of bitchin'! *mk1 owners rolls eyes*

Seconded.

Can anyone tell me how to wire up the counter in std mk1 RT/16v clocks to a DIS unit?

I had it done and yes, you'll get a power increase. However, if i had my chance again i'd have a flowed head fitted at the same time to make the most of it. You don't get the same noticeable improvement with just cams as say you would with doing the same to a 2ltr...its "all or nothing" with the...

Have a look here mate; http://www.f7power.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=659 - i'm cam'ing/flowing my 1.2 over the next few months for laugh...it's on the cheap so why not?

If you're doing it yourself take it to a garage and get them to loosen the stut top bolts with an airgun. I was doing mine myself and rounded the allen socket on the top by accident as i couldn't get the proper leverage by myself....will make life easier for you too.

Yes, if you're not turboing it then 2ltr is the best way to go. However, as the engines are basically identical, theres nothing to stop you tuning a 1.8 then bolting on a 2ltr bottom end once you've a bit of cash.

Its also pointless/waste of money turboing a williams engine. The whole benefit of the 2 ltr is the greater torque...if you're turboing it you may as well buy a vastly cheaper 1.8 lump and up the boost a little bit more to compensate...it'll come to the same torque at the end of the day.

1.8 is a stronger engine and can take more abuse.

You're not going to loose any power on the 1.2 as an IK sits way off to the side of the engine so won't suffer heat soak from any components near it. Theres also so much free space round the engine there will be reasonably cool air flowing to maintain the same or give more power than the std...

Thought about the thinner issue but GSF are listing different shafts for my 1.2 DIET and other 1.2 (like energy); R43852 DRIVESHAFT-LH CLIO 1.1/1.4JB0/JB1/JB3 >97 (EXC 1.2 DIET) R43852A DRIVESHAFT-LH CLIO 1.1/1.4JB0/JB1 GEARBOX R43854 DRIVESHAFT-RH CLIO 1.1/1.2/1.4 >97 JB0/JB1 G/BOX (EXC...

Can anyone tell me the difference between the driveshafts for DIET engined cars and other non-16v clio driveshafts? GFS listed them as being different...in what way?

I'd say go for it in that case. Tempted to do the same with the clio i have now TBH...it's always in the back of my mind it'll basically be worthless (sub 500quid) if i was trying to sell so beginning to think i may as well mess with it...

Stumbling point is the rear track...its wider on a williams/16v so without welding on 16v rear arches you're going to miss that...probably not that bit an issue TBH. Aside from that its all do-able but you'll still be cheaper buying the real deal...unless you're going to repalce everything anyway.

You're not going to be gaining 15-20bhp from and exhaust and remap on the laguna considering that chipping a clio v6 struggles to get 10bhp. IIRC the inlet system on the laguna is different so you'll need to sort that first (£). IIRC Mike T's spec is can run the supercharger safely hence the...

I think j3ned has a 16v vent molded onto his TT?

How? Its lower power to start with too.

^AJR, might explain why you found Ricks 172 ok...he did a fair amount of milage IIRC?

Hmm...that video on BB website does look quite awkward...i never had any issues with the one i had in my mk1 megane. :-s I think a lot of the problems are that since the original lever gives more leverage, it can mask a lot of poorly fitting components...slapping the short throw on will show...

Ecoteks are rubbish...fact. PBV do work, altho are probably a bit pointless on road engines.

Thats the one...the guy who runs it seems to have no idea what things are worth...or just can't be arsed haggling. Great place tho!

Get a set of 15" dynamique wheels and lower it...that way it won't look odd or obviously modified...just nice. Will save arsing about putting everything back to std when selling it too...

Prima do a DCOE manifold for circa £250

Plattsy, this is the problem r.e the belt and bracketry - only bondy knows what car the new brackets come off and only he sells the kits. If you buy one off him you'll find that he's even filed the part numbers off them (2 brackets). Fair enough i suppose as he's worked it out but a pain...

^^Actually if its that uncommon to get them that cheap i might start sourcing them for poeple and make myself some cash lol

Well i got mine (both items) for 7quid from my scrappy so i guess it depends where you go...off a p-reg too! Fair enough i had to remove them myself in the pissing rain but still...

It's not as bad as eveyone thinks...its obviously heavier but no heavier than say a 1.2 with equivalent size tyres on.

Tidy car! Price wise, it depends where you advertise it TBH...stick to cliosport or the like and you'll probably get close to 2k. Elsewhere you'll maybe edge the 1k mark...wether thats because people outwith owners clubs pay what they're really worth or don't appreciate them is a different...