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“Becauseracetart”! I like it! I think that might be me too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Supertech valves and springs are the easiest upgrade. Change valve stem seals while you’re at it. Rod bolts and Megane bottom pulley and you should have a pretty safe engine. And obviously make sure the timing is done properly when it all goes back together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quite often the end of the sensor gets snapped off. At least this one has escaped that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the oil level sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the oil pressure sensor. Is the plug actually broken or could it just be repinned? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes! That’s the one. Precision engineering right there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tooling not rolling! Bloody autocorrect Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I’d say just pretty badly made. There’s some old footage floating around on the internet of a Renault factory with a technician bending a door in all directions and hammering the catch with a mallet to get it to fit! So with those sort of tolerances and probably some variation in the rolling...

My Poorboys looks exactly the same! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Although ITBs sound awesome, if you’re keeping the rest of the engine standard you won’t see any significant gain in power really. Maybe a small improvement but for the cost it’s questionable whether it’s worth it. If it’s a 172 then changing to the 182 manifold will help. And if you can stretch...

I see. You’ll probably find rust around the filler cap too so might be worth getting that done too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're fiddly to fit. I've documented my repair briefly here https://cliosport.net/threads/the-trials-tribulations-of-racing-a-clio.810449/

I think it was these guys https://www.carbodypanels4u.co.uk/renault/clio/renault-clio-3-door-hatchback-2006-2009-campus/rear-quarter-panel-up-to-window-15475

Yes, all the shells are the same. I bought mine in this country. I’ll need to look back to see where it came from Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Main terminal on starter will be shorting on one of the studs. It’s quite common. You’ll see one of the studs is quite long and when the “L” shaped terminal is done right up it touches. It’s very difficult to see once fitted but I’ve been there twice before! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think he means per tonne

Look again. £360 for a pair of doors. Not each. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With a proper spot weld drill bit it’s very easy. I’ve replaced the roof and a rear quarter this way and removed numerous brackets from the car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Advancing the inlet slightly isn't that bad. Very unlikely to cause the symptoms you are experiencing so I'd persevere with the air leak theory. Good luck!

The high idle I think possibly points to an air leak. However, I'd also look at the coil pack and leads. Genuine leads are prone to breaking when they are taken on and off multiple times.

If it’s a new build are you certain the timing is correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No not at all. Bring the pipe up into the scuttle on passenger side and tee it off there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got one over each headlight on brackets pointing inwards at fuel rail and two on the firewall each side over the brake fluid reservoir and beside the expansion tank. Then inside the car I have another 4, all pointing into the foot wells Can take a few pics if it helps. Sent from my...

It’s one of many little things you can do to grab 1 or 2 extra bhp. As you know, unless you are rebuilding the engine and having the bottom end dynamically balanced you should keep the harmonic bottom pulley, but no harm in changing the others. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bumper is now finished barring some stickers that need to go on. Wrapping it was an interesting exercise and took a lot longer than expected. I'm happy with the finish though, with a new lip fitted plus the refreshed brake ducts. Not perfect but good enough for a race car. I've got...

Done properly it should be stronger than before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should be able to weld that without too much trouble. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is no fuel return to the tank on a 182. The pipe you see is a breather from the tank to the carbon canister. You can remove it all the way back to the tank but recommend replacing it with one of these if you do...

Dyno day today and I'm happy to report all is good. Misfire is cured as I'd hoped and other than a bit of tweaking of the map the car made pretty much the same power as back in August. So, next stop Snetterton next Wednesday. Just the bumper to finish.

Ha! Well, firstly it was a night race so the darkness helped show it up and secondly this photo was taken in the pit lane during our driver change so the car was only stopped for about a minute. We clocked it at just over 400 degrees C.