Search results

I wanted to get the brakes sorted before the dyno tomorrow so.... After this at Donington at the end of last year Pads came out looking like this And the calipers were, shall we say - crispy! A quick refresh and all ready to go. Fingers crossed all goes well tomorrow... In other...

More work to complete the brake ducts today I keep having to remind myself that this is a race car! I could have taken a lot more time with this but I got it to a stage that I think it looks decent enough, will serve it's purpose and should be strong too. So after a few more rounds of...

Been a week of fibreglassing. Fixing the broken brake duct and finishing prepping the bumper for wrapping. (My evenings have been consumed with YouTube, car wrapping tutorials! I'm feeling confident I think) The brake duct was a victim of a fairly heavy excursion into the tyres during a wet race...

The tree in the workshop came about after a dispute with the local council. It was originally right on the boundary of our property and years ago before we moved in the council would lop it periodically. The problems came about 10 years ago when it got so big that it started moving the...

Yep!! Always a talking point!

A couple of quiet months with the car but with the pre season test day at Snetterton on the 18th March now booked things are starting to happen again. To start off on the right foot the workshop received a bit of a makeover in January with a fresh coat of paint on the floor and some more...

Call Steve Greenald +44 7774 773824 He often helps Chris at EFI so he knows his onions too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Speak to track n road in Rainham. I’m sure they’ll be able to help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. Not much to say about it though. You can buy direct from Renault or Puremototsport sell them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both O2 sensors plugged in? And check for air leaks on the inlet assembly. Other than that you may have dirt in the fuel rail or loose connection on injectors. At least you know it has potential to run properly. Just needs to be a process of elimination. I'm sure others will have suggestions too...

A short video of the start of our first race at Donington in November. Misfire can be clearly heard. Investigation to commence shortly!

To some extent you are right, but what you are experiencing is the pump priming. The ecu controls this so if pressure doesn’t build in the system it cuts the pump rather than continuously pumping. (Which makes emptying the tank after a race tiresome!) I discovered an earth behind the passenger...

Check all your earths are connected up. I had this after an engine swap and that was the problem for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They should just nip up. Shouldn’t use ptfe or anything like that. Make sure you haven’t cross threaded them too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been running AO50s for last 2 seasons but just moved to AO52s for the last race of the season and they were epic. (Twice the price though) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aren't the Toyos a control tyre in the TDC though?

Still tempted to dip in to this series, you all seem like a nice bunch of lads too! Would be nice if the grids were a bit bigger though.

Ah, I see. Have you tested the relay? Or are you thinking it's immobiliser/electrical fault elsewhere?

When you say the starter motor spins, is it actually turning the engine over or just spinning without engaging? It sounds like the starter might be on the way out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The night practice session was about the only time that the car ran (almost) at 100%. It was still misfiring a little bit. Still haven't got to the bottom of the problem, but then I haven't had much time to get into it since then.

Ha! Well spotted. Someone else pointed out the article in the magazine this week too. With my Demon Tweeks sponsorship sticker visible that should be £150 voucher too! It all helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have any camber shims on the rear too? I run a 10mm spacer which has 2degree camber machined into it and also run a small 5mm spacer with my wheels which are ET35. But it will also depend what your ride height is set at. I have also rolled the arches as a precaution but have never had...

Yes, you've probably got a dodgy sensor or more likely a loose or corroded wire going to it. You'll find it low down on the front of the engine at an angle down in to the sump. Beside the dipstick.

Valve snapped. Not necessarily due to timing out but probably just due to giving it a thrashing. Standard valves are known to fail like this although I’ve also had a Supertech valve fail for no apparent reason too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, what he said. Mark is old school but is meticulous and knows these cars backwards. I’ve used him for cornerweigting my car for years Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes those are the ones. 6 in total. Just out of interest have you checked you’ve got the same stub axles on both sides? 172cup axles were about 5mm thinner than standard. I found this on my car a couple of years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not ideal but yes, an axle spacer will work. Not a wheel spacer though. There is a bit of adjustment on the rear subframe if you loosen all the bolts so you might be able to do that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They always need the spacer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I always thought this pipe could be a weak spot. I siliconed mine in as I built the engine. They're not easy to extract from the block though, especially without removing the water pump. Sorry, not very constructive I know. But I do sympathise.