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Right... well last weekend I had a fairly close inspection of the engine loom and couldn't find any sign of any damaged wires. Inspected the TB and ECU connector and also the fuse box and couldn't find any real sign of corrosion - here in Oz we don't get anywhere near the amount of corrosion...

Thanks Dan. Been doing a bit more searching on this on the forum and apart from giving the plug in the fuse box a once over I'll also have a look at the wiring/connectors in the engine loom/ecu etc.

Both part numbers - 8200110998 and 8200110994 - are actually printed on my throttle body lol, but Renault Oz only had a listing for 8200110994 - which as MarcR posted earlier is the same part number as the Twingo throttle body so yeah, should all be good. Just that sometimes with Renault things...

Recently I have had the car go into limp mode with the electrical fault light coming up on the dash a few times. Each time it has happened at the same spot in the cool of the morning, usually on the way to work - not long after starting the car (so not yet fully warmed up), turning out onto the...

Oops sorry... @Fred@BTM @Dan@SJM @MicKPM any help would be most appreciated :)

Fred@BTM Dan@SJM MickPM would any of you be able to confirm?

Fair enough thanks mate

Cheers for that - it's definitely ok to use on the Clio? I assume with the same part number it would be but want to make sure I am not missing something :)

Hiyas Part number for Clio 1*2 throttle body is 8200110998 or 8200110994, which is also the part number for the Twingo 133 throttle body. From pics they look identical. I am right in thinking they are the same part yeah? Just wanting to confirm before I go ahead and order one that is listed...

I did about 4 trackdays on my PS3's but recently bought a set of ADO8Rs - lowered my PB at the track I go to by almost 2 secs after that :) More grip, stiffer sidewalls - will take the abuse on track far better than the PS3s could so I would definitely recommend them for track work. I also use...

Right - a bit of background. Currently running Sportlines/Konis/Compbrake topmounts with Turinis/205/45/16's and am keen to raise the front of the car up a bit - say 10mm or so. The reasons I am keen to do this are: I currently get a little bit of rubbing on the liner near the front bumper...

Ok cheers mate - thanks for the info :)

Yeah interested to know what bearing it was that needed to be replaced Terrydb

Uprated one.

I would've thought RSTuner would be a better option?

I had just one leg of the battery tray snap (the one closest to the firewall) while the other 4(?) bolts were fine and the car felt terrible - sluggish and noisier than normal with LOTS of vibration in the cabin at idle and when under load. TBH I think that you definitely need that one fixed to...

Couldn't find anything specific on the yokohama.co.uk website but on yokohama.com.au they say 'Set ADVAN Neovas up like race tyres so that your hot pressures, when you come off the track are between 32 and 36 psi.' Just got a set on my 172 and will use this as a starting point when I take them...

Good to hear! :)

Ok just throwing this out there - perhaps the knocking started due to the old mounts being worn, but when the new engine mounts were put in the engine was aligned/moved slightly over to the drivers side which reduced the room for the driveshaft to operate in and thus continued knocking? If this...

So around the time your engine mounts were done?

Is your car lowered?

Might just need the engine shifted over a bit then to give a bit more room - easy to do and if that is the problem then should solve it. Let us know how you go.

Knocking on hard left cornering? Try loosening off the engine mounts and moving the engine over towards the passenger side before then tightening up the mounts again. If the knocking is because the cv is bottoming out on the drivers side driveshaft then this should give you more room for the...

Good to hear :)

Definitely not a Monaro - has too many doors... ;)

Yeah are they genuine driveshafts? If genuine driveshafts I wouldn't have thought that at 20mm lower you would have too much trouble, and if you did just loosening off the mounts and pushing the motor over a bit to give more room should solve it. Uprated mounts (Ktec/Vibratechnics) - or new...

100mm! Blimey that's a lot of lows. The theory about the driveshaft being too long is kind of true - however it's not too long just you've lowered the car so much that it is binding or bottoming out as mark123 describes it. You could try loosening off the engine mounts and moving the engine...

Yeah they build them strong and it looks like they have to be. Great racing - shame the cars are as ugly as f*ck though...

Well out here we've got the Big Pineapple, the Big Prawn, the Big Banana et al... now we've got the Big Pothole too. :D

Yeah from that pic it looks like you could run different caster setups?