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Yeah, I thought it might when I first offered it up so decided to put some on at the same time. Hopefully will have a complete engine tonight, just the head to do then time the new belt kit up!

Oh yes, done that :)

Cap 1 was injected down the sides early on Ben until it came out everywhere then left to set, I cut the tops off before putting the sump on as per the Renault manual. Ive never put any silicone on the Oil Pump before when fitting, where should it go?

Update time... finished the short motor this afternoon/evening. Started with checking the ring gaps: Fresh block/light hone... New set of rings... To check the gap of the ring it needs to go into the cylinder, be squared then measured with a feeler gauge. Gave the bore a bit of WD40...

Il give you a call this week Northy, might need a few bits from you, il speak to you about it then ;)

Dosent really make a difference as the numbers will super-seed to the nissan numbers for quite a while yet I would imagine

Hes not figured out how to use his new fangled DSLR yet...

Ive got a list of a few hundred more parts to add to it, just not got the time at the moment though. Its getting a fair amount of hits from this site and Google mind, so people must be finding it useful!

You need to add a 10k 'pullup' resistor to the tacho/rev counter wire. Basically get a 10k ohm resistor, strip a part of the tacho/rev counter wire back, solder one end of the resistor onto it, then solder a 12v+ ignition live onto the other end of it. Your rev counter will now work fine.

Engine build starts tomorrow, got everything now after pulling in some favours from various people who will be mentioned as I go along. Picked the head and bottom end up earlier; head has been skimmed and dipped, bottom end has been decked and bores honed. Also picked up these the other...

Just a good deal, never used the place before. Was down the road in Westhoughton, near Leigh!

OE spec as new, crank has never been touched and only on circa 38k as far as I know, looks very clean. Going to be assembling it and checking with plastigauge as a precaution in the next few days, if all is good it will be built up. Only thing im waiting to find out about is thrust washers...

Got home today to a box from Gaz... Shocks have had new black bushes, new pistons, new adjusters, new seals and new covers... Also picked up the Rings, Big End Bearings, Mains Bearings and Thrusts... Then this evening decided to go down to the car and give the engine bay another quick...

Just bonnet/bootlid and things iirc

Thats exactly the reason it happened I think, the bottom edge of their w*nky E-torx sockets is like chamfered and the teeth only start say 5mm into the socket. Although, ive always used the same one in the past and never had an issue so who knows. It seemed like the teeth snapped off rather than...

Not sure why they were used, got them from a valver I had which had Williams widetrack on it. They fit on the 172 wishbones, not sure what they are meant to do other than add strength to be honest. Subframe was fitted to the car before, no pictures though as it was going dark and raining...

Mileage as in to diesel? Over the last 2800 mile its doing an average of 49mpg, does around 140-160 miles to £20

Ive used GSF/Eurocarparts/GT many a time and always been fine

Anti Roll Bar, meet my friend... Needless to say it took 15mm off either end of the 182/Trophy ARB without any hassle at all. I then used a flap disk on a grinder to tidy up the ends. The bushes went on to the ARB fine, then fitted it to the subframe... Sorted! Just put a quick coat...

Nah, at Mallory Park the day before instead!

Yeah, he had it going through this week so chucked it all in compared to having to do a separate job for black!

Engine block and head were dropped off a few days ago to have the machine work done, so I should have those back early next week. I also had a phone call from Gaz yesterday saying my shocks are ready, which was a pretty quick turnaround! Picked up the subfame/brackets/everything that had been...

To give you an idea of what Jams has seen go on eBay the past few weeks... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230616284175&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190523922855&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Re: 1.2 Track car Conversion He didnt sort anything on the subframe as it wasnt loose

No wires from the FPR to the loom no, you would probably have to use the older Ph1 pump (where the reg was on the rail) if you want to run it like that, as its in the tank/pump on the feed only setups I think

Re: 1.2 Track car Conversion Yours clunks when you pull away too though, probably just a f*cked balljoint, can still be tight and the actual ball has failed inside, ive had that a few times before. There isn't anything up with Robs, saw it last night, hes just being paranoid!

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Its around 40-45kg

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project LOL. Its been cut out since 2008, keep up ;) We'l see ;) Got the head/old block back today with the head removed, took him a while to mill the heads off the bolts but the head is all intact so I can carry on! Then got on with removing the valves so I...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Not a clue, but put it this way... When I come to break it il make a profit due to selling everything ive had in the past at a profit

When we did Rob91's conversion we had to leave the key in the barrel with the ignition on for like 20-30mins. It was doing exactly the same as yours, we left it on and went to Asda, came back and the immobiliser light had gone out, turned the key and it started straight up.