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Week today :)

Yeh. Its just the same as whats happened every single time when the emulator has failed, I.E. the immobiliser is active. Fuel pump primes........does not run when cranking. No spark and no injectors. Pretty much the same as when the TDC sensor is not working, but I know it is fine as its only...

Baaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh it wont even f*cking start now. Cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks, the usual. I had taken another (3rd) coilpack down to try out too, but couldnt even get it running on the 'working' one first.. Could not find my spare injector set either, looks like someones...

Heading down there to try my spare injectors shortly, not sure if any of them are any good mind... Il let you know! Yeah, as above :) Its unedited, I had just left the Gain setting as it was on the camera. With it being the 1080p when you plug it into the computer you can configure how it...

Nothing is EVER simple..... Following on from the alternator fault, I took it back and got it fixed under warranty last week. Next was the ECU, I thought it might just be the emulator, so Andrew Cooke kindly sent me one of his spares to try out and see if it would run. It came and i put it onto...

Well it did 100odd miles to run it in initially, then and around 150-200 track miles at 6.5krpm+ over two track days with the limiter set to 7800rpm, runs nice. Old engine made 172bhp/165lbft @ TDF, this one feels the same if not stronger so id hope for about the same at RST... Dave with the...

Posted this over on overclockers but this subforum seems to be more active in getting replies! After an idea of what people think I should get parts wise for a new base unit - capable of rendering video easily (i.e. not having to wait 4 hours to render 12 minutes of 720p on a P4 3.2ghz). The...

This swan neck one has haha. Had twin electric one on originally, its more like fitted 4 nights ago lol. Took other one off to sell!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1999-Volkswagen-Passat-1-9-TDi-110bhp-SE-Sport-Estate-/330588267769

Probably less, but I ruled that out after it was fine for like 18 months if not more.... Took it back and the guy confirmed the regulator was faulty, so had that swapped over. Also knocked together a small LCD volt meter to put in front of the clocks so I can turn off if I spot it going daft again!

The what now?! Im sure this is a Missle...

Ummm........tempted to trailer the Mk1 up en-route to Donington, would be interested to see what the new engine makes. Il have a think.

Waiting to hear back from the battery company....alternator is being dropped off at the place I got it from in Manchester tomorrow, so we'l see what happens... Yeah not much left original, I think the only thing is the rear beam! Yeah it is miles better. Its a ContourHD 1080p, basically...

It was new around 18 months ago, its actually an Espace diesel unit. It was fine up until a month ago when the bearing got noisy, so I took it to a local place who rebuilt the whole thing with a 12 month warranty. Fitted it and it was fine at Mallory etc, as I checked its output to see if it was...

Yeah, it just needs a bit of tweaking when rendering next time round, along with recording in 1080p instead of 720p. Probably better sort the N/S driveshaft vibration too so there isnt any camera wobble!

Primered bumpered Mk1 is Whiteley on here

Took the Mk1 over to Cadwell Park on Wednesday with a group of people from here, risked it by only taking slicks with the rain being on and off on the day. Only managed a few dry sessions before my month old Odyssey battery nearly exploded... Lucky I came back in when I did or it could...

Yeah the alternator is under 12 months warranty, and the battery itself 24 months. Although, im going to kick up a fuss with the alternator place saying its knackered my ECU and battery and see what they say.. Yeah it really is the best track in the UK for the Clio, it was a lot better on the...

Well I had a pretty disastrous day at Cadwell on Wednesday, not getting much time on track at all. Fitted a new steering wheel (finally), added more camber (maxxed the shocks out in their slotted holes) and re-did the tracking. Loaded the car up onto the trailer and set off on Tuesday evening...

Fitted my old starter motor back to the car the other day, and it started fine. Although, I got a loud squeeking from somewhere around the starter area. I put it down to it being the motor, as it originally wouldnt work at Mallory - thought it could possibly be the bushes inside it. So from that...

Then it got broke after that, while back now

Lower inlet can stay on

Waterpump is on the bottom end so you are OK leaving that. Inlet manifold, cambelt, rocker cover, all have to come off to get to the head bolts, which in turn allow you to remove the head. You'l need the proper timing tools to get the rocker cover off too..

Re: Shims on no.2 - Thrust Bearings I paid around £13 for the actual thrusts (trade) and about the same for the two seals.. Il reply to your PM shortly Jon

Like I said when you asked.......... the place down the Lancs where I get all my engine parts from. King Components, only a couple of quid.

Re: Shims on no.2 Where did you buy them from or are they the old ones? They are available from plenty of places... give King Components a call, I always get my stuff from them as they can get pretty much anything. Luckily they are round the corner from me but they do post out, my thrusts were...

As Ben said in the middle of the clocks. If leaving it in the ignition does not work, Jonny1*2 has a CLiP for reprogramming and hes based round our way...

Whats the immobiliser light in the middle of the dash doing when this is happening? Staying solid red, flashing red? Sounds like the match between the key & car has been lost, seen it quite a few times with the same symptoms. Last time we just left the key in the ignition with it in position 2...

I bet only 1deg more is available at a push, as the inside of the wheel starts getting close to the shock. Will have to have a look sometime

Quickly measured it with a spirit level last time I was down there... had it upright so it was 'level' sat between each edge of the rim. Diameter of the rim is 381mm, gap at the top was 17mm... giving approx 2.55deg when worked out with tangent.