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Just so you know. LED flashing @ 1Hz - System armed (normal with key out) LED flashing @ 4Hz - System armed (Security check failed, key not recognised/authorised to start vehicle) LED on solid - Key recognised and authorised to start but system node, gateway or other fault present. Unable to...

It's meant to go out, when you turn to ignition and leave it there for a few seconds before starting.

Proper unit! Was this the one i saw pop up on the facebook pages asking if people wanted to rent space?

They're scrap mate 😞

Is the red light going out or flashing? Could be the key fob battery.

Hope you get it sorted mate.... You've got my tyres :anguished:

Spoke my mate Rob today at Oulton, who runs the track time Facebook page and sells the PBS pads. He said he'd put them at around the carbone lorraine rc5+ range. Only one compound currently. They're not rebranded ebc pads either.

That'll do.

If money is tight, i'd recommend making sure it's 100% an O2 sensor at fault. 1.2 tend to be injectors and coilpack from my experience.

Civic Cup lads use them. As with most pads you get some people raving about them and others saying they're s**t.

Some OMP ones short out.

Yeah, nice place.

Sort of yeah, i've got a mate that lives in Stenson, near the bypass.

They sound good, i heard an Audi R8 V10 with one the other day and it sounded mental! Where abouts in Derby are you?

If you want a custom exhaust, speak to Charlie at CGR Automotive.

Get on the Meganesport and RSMegane Facebook pages, usually some cars being broken on there.

Most other places seem to be about £75 a tyre :confused:

Sump gasket?

Yeah that's who i use, but he's got none when i messaged him the other day. Always been free delivery for me.

B and C will probably relate to the chassis number BM0M and CM0M.

Laguna was 714 then 764 i think.

225 / R26 blocks should be the same.

Where did you get the AD08r's from Mark? The guy i usually get mine off hasn't got any and i need some soon.

No point doing it cheap, you get what you pay for and all that.

Yeah that's not bad at all.

Where does it stand you up until this point, like including the cost of the car then stage 2 then stage 4?

Leave the TRE on the tie rod, angle grind the rod about half way. Put new tie rod in, measure the amount of remaining threads between the TRE lock nut and the last thread on the rod. Wind new TRE on until you reach the same said remaining threads. Hope that makes sense, it does to me 😂

That's the correct one.

Beyond my knowledge. Need someone with electrical fault finding skills.

Ahh right, must be a wiring issue then. Something got fried by the sounds of it.