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s**t cold running is usually due to the cold start mapping. Stock cold start has quite a bit of ign r****d to warm ths cat fast. No choke as its not a carburettor, ecu controls/enriches the fuelling on cold start using coolant temp.
Worth resetting the adaptives on the ecu. Wonder if the icv adaptives can be reset on ph1.
As for hot idle, will always be a little bit rough due to the cam profile. Bumping the idle up to 900rpm on a good map makes it smoother. Also a good map will sort out the spluttering from cold.
Agreed, its got to be one or the other, fitted length not right or the hydraulic lifters are not controlling it right.
Im unsure whether to give the 197 inlet cam one more chance. Chris/Efi tuned one with same 197inlet, 182 exhaust cam recently and it worked well.
Updates. Blue dci is almost on 207k now as been commuting to Hull quite a bit. No dramas as all motorway driving, Its not a bad drive being honest with the m62 being quiet to Hull.
Almost daily sight this week.
Give it the blue dci a hoover out a couple of weeks ago. Drivers seat is getting...
Will do mate before i get balls deep stripping it (y)
Out of interest, do you think the double supertech springs may be more setup for solid lifters instead of hydraulics?
Update,
Well nothings happened really. I was brainstorming with Haswell on things that might have changed on the car since he had it. The only real changes are supertech double valvesprings, larger supertech valves and different inlet and exhaust cams.
Haswell suggested looking at the...
Suspension top mounts. Inner tie rods and track rod ends, as you will need the geo doing and fresh steering parts usually make a massive difference.
Personally id get the crowbar on the bushes and balljoints to check if they are good or not.
Check wheel speeds on diagnostic to see whats going on. Ive only ever had tc issues with geo out.
Any pics of the printout for the geo? A lot of places are s**t at doing it sadly, might be worth getting it checked elsewhere.
My original snapped in the same place. Heard a few weeks of pings which i thought was the ratchet slipping, later realised it was cable strands snapping :LOL:
Might be due a clutch if getting a bit heavy.
Id imagine it will need to be fitted by a dealer or approved specialist for warranty, might be wrong though.
Out of interest where has it broken? If your confident it was routed right and it was just crap quality, id stick aftermarket on.
I stuck a cheap motaquip clutch cable on my dci years...
Rooflining doesnt need to be removed to replace the aerial btw, its an hr job as cable has a join on drivers side rear, and simply pull rooflining down at the back.
Cheers mate!
I could lie and say it was easy to modify the display but i had some head scratching moments modifying the coding. Also arse nipping writing custom code incase it went wrong, i just send it and hope for the best. All worked out OK, No guts no glory:LOL:
Sill drains are on the sill lip from memory.
Jack up on the inner most chassis rail/box section, the long one that goes front to back of the car. Its absolutely solid, if your jack wont reach upgrade to a long reach/low profile one with 100mm plate.
Updates.
Washed the r26 whilst i done the 250 yesterday. Brake dust on the wheels/side of the car was horrendous.
Much better. Just under 2 weeks until Spa Francorchamps, cant wait.
Thanks for reading!!
With this done i done some more coding to the rs monitor.
The boost gauge was still going to the top and we had adjusted it to 1800mbar assuming it was using gauge pressure, but all it showed was 1800> on full boost
Note peak reading line maxing out the bar graph.
As i had been logging with...