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Had same before xmas, seems to have calmed down.

Just noticed that refrigerant pressure says 0.0bar too and that was pressured up fine recently. Will also disconnect the ac pressure sensor at the weekend to see if thats affecting sensor voltages.

Updates. Blue dci failed to commence yesterday. Replaced imv on the hp fuel pump on sat as process of elimination and still had the occasional low idle. I then span egr to stop it egr'ing to eliminate it, marked improvements in performance and engine sound better albeit stinking of diesel on...

I got the mega pliers from Lidl last week, great for the money. The nutsert kit looks good too, assume sold out in ours as didnt see any.

Need to pin the crank and set timing again on oem 172 non keyed pulley. Leave it until next cambelt job.

Engine needs load on it to get the turbo working. Drive it and see what pressure it makes at full throttle. No idea if the icarsoft can datalog but you want something to datalog ideally Smoke test or pressure boost circuit for leaks.

Usually need a puller for the wipers so saved you some aggro

Check for cracks and gouges on hoses, replace if any seen. If all look ok keep sending it. Keep an eye on the oem spring type hose clamps as they almost rotted through on mine, replaced them before they failed. My dci is 197 thousand miles/22 years old. Original hoses not too worried, done 375...

Can get them even cheaper if you sniff round mate. I think i paid £15 delivered for mine, its successfully repaired loads of bits. Add a bit of epoxy resin over the finished repair and pretty strong. Great for small repairs on bumpers etc, do it from inside so not seen. Just beware staple melts...

The hot staples work great for plastic repairs if you want a strong repair on the bumper. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394145286191?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ebmu2wx0qem&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=sQrVQpEdQKi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Once its gone flat itll generally never be as good again. Kill switch or pop the negative off if laid up for a bit between trackdays. I use bosch personally, no issues.

Heater leak wont cause lumpy running but will explain coolant loss. What injectors have you fitted, oem or aftermarket? Might be a plug or lead? Compression test too. Id prob avoid the local garage unless very good, too many are crap at diagnosing anything.

Id be tempted to take it to a specialist to check as headgasket fail pretty rare on these. Id take it to Aw Motorworks for diag and repair. I had coolant loss and inconclusive block test on mine. Pressured up cooling system with plugs out and nothing. Heater matrix was leaking. I have also had...

Fix current one, sometimes its better the devil you know and spec sounds decent enough. List of repairs is not bad, about the same as most prob need these days. Has headgasket been officially diagnosed, i.e. evidence of coolant in cylinders?

Change it for a new fusebox. Not too expensive new from memory.

I keep meaning to buy the metal one to replace it, one day😆 Give the interior a clean today as it was a bit of a shithole and not been done since before Spa. Cleans up decent enough for 139 thousand miles. Thanks for reading!!

Im not familiar on that diagnostic but clip usually tells you if its stored old codes or current on the df code and extended data will show you when triggered on mileage etc. There is always loads stored due to low voltage on most modern renaults, i usually clear all and see what comes back in...

Small update When i removed the upper torque mount to do cambelt i noted it was absolutely shot and the large bush was pretty much falling out. I had a slightly less knackered one to fit but needed a new one. Found a new old stock hutchinson one on ebay for £20, arrived Friday morning. Neww...

Forgot to update this. After a load of reading and understanding how the delphi system works, i done some diagnostics on the blue dci last Sunday to try and pinpoint the occaaional low idle. Leakoff test on injectors proved to be ok and well within the spec. After 2 mins running. Cranking...

Get it scanned with can clip to see what faults are stored, will pinpoint the issue.

Dont worry about the f4k, my megane blocks also have it on. The actual code is on the front but usually almost unreadable due to rust.

@Dan1987wales yep just undo hub nut and you should be able to push the end of the driveshaft in until it bottoms out.

How much negative camber? At a guess driveshaft cvs bottoming out under suspension compression. Quite common on the clios. For a quick test with car sat as normal on floor, buzz the driveshaft nut undone and check the cv plunge, should be able to push the shaft in 10mm or so. If plunge is...

That area is prone to water ingress even with bonnet seal in place sadly. Make sure the fusebox cover is clipped into place properly as it is quite difficult to get the lip on right next to inner wing and the relays make it hard to clip on. Worth covering pins on the white plug in diaelectric...

Updates. Finally cracked on with cambelt and water pump replacement yesterday. Stripped. I checked cam timing before removing belt and it was still bang on had not moved a mm. Genuine Ren water pump. Never ever use aftermarket or do the job twice :cautious: could see that the gates pump...

Good to hear your getting there. Who are you using for pdr?

Mine is dcf899p2. Fron a quick google they say the 899 has a bit more poke than them two. You will need the extra power for removing rusty studs or overtorqued bolts.

None for sale sorry mate. Go dewalt, i actually prefer mine over red as no soft start on it

Not strictly new tool but had issues with my snap on techangle torque wrench going off all the time when last used. Quite a common issue and i had repaired it myself a few years ago but something had happened inside the handle this time. Sent it in to snap on via local distributor for repair...

Yep good bit of kit them funnels. No more spilling oil all over