Search results

I'd love another MX5, I had a lovely neo green eunos V-spec about 15, yrs ago. Would have another V-spec, S-spec or RS limited in a heartbeat

Happy with that, alignment sorted too. I've just had it on temporary day insurance for the MOT, need to sort out a proper policy with some kind of agreed value etc, I wouldn't want something to happen and an insurer trying to pay out £3k for it now. I'll tax it on the first of march and start...

Definitely go for autodoc if you're not desperate for the bits, stick the parts in your basket and sit on it for a day or two until you get the 'items in your basket have been reduced' email

"Yeah, arch your back a bit more, that's it, say mince.. I mean cheese!"

People who double click torque wrenches also have 4d number plates and interfere with kids, I despise it 😂

Well that's mildly disappointing but not the end of the world. Ive ordered a new 3rd brake light but for the re-test I'm just going to put some black electrical tape over it then it can't be tested Ordered a new number plate light, I looked at the current one (was brand new from Renault just...

Another vote for norbar, I use them at work and have a set at home, these will cover everything you need to do and last a lifetime

I'm pretty sure that's a resistance welded stud, like the smaller ones that hold the fusebox in, I had one of them snapped (same one that's snapped in your pic), I wiggled it with some mole grips to break the welds and put a rivnut in it. Obviously you want something more substantial than a...

That's properly rotten, so happy it's happened to those nonces 👌

I'm surprised they're recommending that solution. Studs and bolts aren't the same. Studs also don't need to be bottomed out in a blind hole to work, I would set the stud to the correct installed length in the cam with Loctite 242 to get 2-3 threads of protrusion on the nut when fitted.

Do you just want a 172 cup, or specifically that one.. spending £5-6k on a really nice one will be significantly quicker, easier and less hassle than buying one that needs work you can't do yourself. If you do buy that one then you need to value it on the worst case scenario of needing £1k a...

Sills look pretty standard for most MK2 clios, they're definitely going to need doing before long.. can you weld/paint? You can expect £500-1000 a side to sort it out depending on the extent of the rot and the level of repair you're happy with

What cleaning process was used on the block? The deck looks very Matt/satin finish, doesn't look like it's been refaced?

Haven't touched this since before Xmas, I've just exchanged contracts on a new house so under a bit of pressure to get it sorted now so I pulled my finger out yesterday and got it off the axle stands and gave it a run down the street, all seems well which is nice.

But the seller said he's 'improved the condition ten fold' by doing an oil service and fitting ditchfinders and some new discs

As above, you need to cut a fair bit off both ends of the heater matrix bypass, you also need to cut the metal banding and remove the push fit ends for the heater matrix pipe stubs off the OEM hoses and connect the new hoses to them.

Nobody is ever paying £10k for a 172/182 unless it's a perfect 172 cup or a Trophy, even with <40k miles it's a £5k car max

Take it to an exhaust fabricator and get a sports cat welded into the exhaust. There's no point in running a decat on a road car, the power loss from running a sports cat is negligible if anything at all, you won't notice a couple of BHP anyway and it's worth having one to do away with the...

You can use isopropyl alcohol to remove the sticky residue from the interior trims, then either leave them, get them sprayed Matt black to look OEM or if they absolutely have to be carbon you could get them carbon skinned by someone like this lad...

Thanks mate, you finished yours yet? You came up in conversation the other day when I was talking cars with Pete B

Last seen 18th December, looks like he's done the shithouse shuffle out the back door.

Overall the car is really nice, I'd be more than a bit annoyed if the seller has misrepresented it, especially if you've specifically asked for pics/info of 'the bad bits' , I'm not taking the piss here, but did you collect it in the dark? Blisters in the paint looks like solvent pop, which is...

Bought the Clio a little Xmas present, will have to wait until post-MOT to be fitted because I don't want the tester crying about it not having an airbag. I love Nardi wheels, had a Deep Corn in my MR2 Turbo years ago, this is my first 'Personal' and I'm really happy with it.

Loctite 518 for the cam cover Clio R3 maxi build Manual specifies DowSil 732 for No1 main cap, but Loctite 5980 is also suitable.

Personally, for what they cost I don't see why you wouldn't while you've got the sump and windage tray off. At least pull the caps off the rods and inspect them

I'm assuming you mean front brake pad slider shims? What model is your Clio? What's the chassis number?

That's really nice, can't argue with the results there.. it's still on my list of things to do but at the moment I'd rather spend the £2k on an exterior blow over first

Yes you can do the rod bolts with the engine in situ, it is possible to change the rod bearings at the same time.

Soda blasting removes paint etc, I just want the 20+ years of gearbox oil leaks, underseal and road grime removed from the underside

Frostworks.dryice on Instagram TBH if is was a 20k car I wouldn't baulk at the price, but i don't think it's worth it on a Clio, I'll probably just get it as high off the ground as I can on some tall axle stands and attack it with some chemicals, a drill brush and the pressure washer.. then...