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Track set up Below are cup standard settings

I suggest you use 3.3Ohm resistors and put them into all of the air bag connectors one at a time and then locating the problem are once the lamp goes off . Use the tuner to clear codes and then test again . You'll need several resistors , all cheap as chips from EBay or Maplins

Two things , check all the body earths in engine bay and also at the steering column . Seems like the electric motor is pulling to much current and tripping the power circuit through the poor earth .

It should be ok - what you got to loose . Try the cheaper option first , if it doesn't work , then get a second hand manifold.

Soon @Kyle 86 soon mine will be on. MWW timing and Mapped

Update : The stickers have been confirmed to me as unavailable - so you'd be lucky to find any if anyone had stock left over . Price was apparently for 1 pack which contains both sides

Don't forget to disconnect the battery terminal , and with regards to releasing the belt tensioner - seek the help of someone with a little knowledge as these Clios are a little bit awkward really when it comes to the belt.

There is a big heavy weight under the drivers engine mount . I'd be loosing that first of its not already been removed

Part number is 7701206432 And prices is £28.18+vat I think at that price I'll put some black tape

I'll ask my mate at Renault tomorrow @Dr Jekyll

@Rocket2042 , send a few pics to @Willliams and he will let you know if it's ok

Hope you won't need a caliber also through lack of use [emoji12]

Ph1 means first build of the Mk2 shape . Ph2 of Mk2 is what we call a face lift .

No it's a Ph1 Mk2 Mk1 was the Williams shape nicknamed the"Valver"

All secured and I narrowed the pipe to rest closer to the plate

So I'm doing the last stages of the scoops today , as you can see in the pic one on my brackets which is pop riveted to the fog housing and this only poses a minor issue. I had to cut the pipe to pass along side of the riveted part . Once in place I secured with a hose clip and it's nice and...

I'm doing mine as well , @M.C.. Have you any pics . Also any links to senders ect

A better angle

Managed to get these fitted today , seems to fit quite tidy , when car on the floor , no fowling on full lock and it clears the braided brake line . [emoji2] sweet. O/S one doubles as a guard for the crank pulley as such

Now I can [emoji106]. But only one

I should have kept the blanking plugs that came with the new racks back in the day instead of launching em in the bin Doh

Cannot see any pics @Fraser.J.

I'm understanding the lubed rack and pinion side of things , is the other part blocked off just to keep the s**t out Mark ?

I found this - looped twice ? Any ideas why it's looped at the rotary valve head as it's been suggested it's to be blocked off.

My Ph1 172 set up as mentioned above

That's why I thought my idea of having the pipes go to a reservoir , then the level will just rise and fall from lock to lock won't it ? Maybe it's just cafufle anyway [emoji14]

@Kelv has my steering column and ecu @NorthloopCup , now of to EBay to get that resistor loom

Right O , roughly what quantity is within that part of the rack ? Seems it'll be small I suspect. If it's brimmed it'll lock up won't it ?

I'll find you and subscribe