Search results

You could get a set of supertech valves for peace of mind too. Standard ones can drop valve heads

Shouldn't be catching, cooksports aren't that low. Mine is another 20mm+ lower or so and doesn't catch on bumps.

Get on your back and tweak it! It's not hard just a ball ache and it didn't help I did mine outside in torrential rain. I've put a couple of posts up on how I set mine, you could probably find them with a quick search.

Doesn't sound good :( either a spare head or a rebuild required.

Monster 4s in silver imo. Monster 6 is a bit overkill! The R132 is the race version of the monster 4 and needs more maintenance. Ask them if they'll do them so the writing is there but doesn't stand out (a bit like the economy finish on the billet 4). Even better if they can do something like...

What diameter is the boost piping btw, you'd gain more from going to 3 to 2" piperwork than changing the cooler. remember the volume of the cool is only in the end tanks and a small amount of the bar and plate design. e.g swapping from a 20" square intercooler with 2" end tanks and 3" thick...

The welds and joints are weaker than the bolts. If it was for track only and I never had any intention of taking it out or having passengers in the back I'd go weld in, its cheaper! When you look at the data of neck loading of HANS vs. no protection the results even at 30mph are quite scary.

Bolt in cages work perfectly well. If your preference is welded then fine. You still have the same amount of material and the bolts aren't the weakest link. For most racing a bolt in cage is more than sufficient, then there's times when no type cage will save you! I'd be more worried about...

Don't shoot the messenger.

Until you unbolt the cage, then its a road car. Put it back in, its a track car. Etc.

The 60mm fits all Clios though whereas a 90mm would only suit a few. Doesn't make financial sense for them which I can understand. I wouldn't want to put time and money into making or trialing a low volume item with little or no profit margin.

"The fact is bigger will be better as long as it can be sited correctly within the airstream and it doesn’t significantly affect the engine’s cooling by blocking the air stream to other heat exchangers such as coolant radiators and oil coolers."...

It depends with what discs. They only have a 21mm calliper height which is less than the standard callipers. The Monster 4 can come with a 330mm disc (minimum 17") or a 300mm (you might get away with the right 15" wheels). The race version of the same calliper can come with 275mm discs which...

The hi spec will no problem :)

That doesn't cool the oil as quickly so makes sense they ran 10w60. More constant temperature but will generally be closed to 100 compared with 80 of an air cooled setup. 100 is a good temperature though.

I would test the cylinders first though to at least narrow down pinpointing the issue.

I put them straight back in, timed it back up and then started it. It was a bit tappy obviously until the lifters filled up. Went from a dog of an engine running on 3 to purring like a kitten. Until then I didn't know lifters could lock out!

Put it this way, it won't do any harm. Although I'd lean towards 5W50 depending on how occasional the track use is. Also it depends whether it'll be getting used over winter too as then you may find the 10W a little more tappy than the 5W on startup.

It was on my Fiesta. It was a 195bhp zetec engine, without the socks it was 197. On the Clio I didn't measure it with/without filter.

Good, it'll have its own gravitational pull to reel cars in as you approach them then. Seriously though it doesn't look too big, nothing wrong with a big intercooler.

Dem brakes

Cooler doesn't look to big

It depends how the socks are fitted. Mine lost me 2bhp.

With oil cooler 5W50, without oil cooler 10W60. Renault spec 10W60 for all the F4R powered Cup racers but they don't run a cooler. If you run a decent air to air coil cooler 5W50 is fine.

I've had issues on a different engine upon changing the cams and lifters where 2 of the lifters had 'locked out'. I took them all out, drained them all, refitted everything and it was fine then.

The only issue with socks is that they can be sucked in, if you could get some which have wire reinforcement that will stop any suction problems.

One of the filter manufacturers and a bit of research. I can't remember the exact sources but I can remember the figures. I think one may have been Pipercross and the value was 19mm so I rounded it up to 20mm, easier to remember!

Nice! That's PDK quick, better than a manual :)

It depends how close, you might have to cut a hole large enough for the entire filter, a bit like they do on kit cars.

You need 20mm between the end of the trumpet and the filter + the same again from the filter to the bonnet, a rounded filter will give you more space than a square one. You'll just have to measure and see what suits best.