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(Updating this to help other members in the future) I’ve fitted new ABS rings to the front and bled the brakes. I can engage ABS now. However it seems to alternate between working correctly, locking the rear wheels, and engaging ABS and pulling to the passenger side. Making progress at least...

Ha! Why, am I not supposed to? J/K As far as I know these are slightly uprated road pads, and previously had performed fine.

True it is quite big lol. Didn't want to go for specifics if you were in Suffolk lol. I live near Blackburn but work in Walkden. I've managed to cancel the track day as I was getting stressed with the clock ticking so the pressure is off now. Actually lolled at that then!

Thanks mate, I'm in Lancashire. Are you localish? Will try and give that a go, cheers mate. Only thing I will say is Ive never been able to activate the ABS before, but not tried on grass or gravel. Trying to think where there is some grass I can drive on!

I've just had someone on the Facebook group say that, strange but makes sense! Since I stripped it I got a bit paranoid about little noises as there were more than before but I've checked the bearings (two handed yank on all four wheels and rotated and checked for funny noises and movement) and...

To be honest from memory yes but I can't confirm it. Will check tomorrow. Where might this air be hiding? In the ABS pump requiring the computer to cycle it? To add I took it out at the weekend and kicked its head in on some B roads and it the brakes consistently had this issue.

Got a ph2 172 with a braking issue. Basically on first pedal press you get about half braking force no matter how hard you press. Second press however is great. Full braking force and good feel. This means that half the time you end up doing a pre-tap before applying the brakes. Currently...

Think it's had those recently actually. At least one lol

Good call, but did those last month :cool:

Right! Looking to change the ABS rings this week. I've got a handy mate to help. Anything else worth changing while it's in bits?

A tiny voice in my head says they might be Braid. But I don't know why I'm saying that.

That's what I thought!

Managed to get under be car yesterday. Removed the A brace and the connectors all seems fine. No wire issues I could see and it's not like there's any movement there. Nothing obvious around the ABS components in the engine bay either. Will check the ABS rings tonight. How hard are they to change...

Perfect thank you!

Excuse my ignorance, what do you mean by passenger A-Frame?

Ok that's promising, thanks.

Will jump under at the weekend and take some snaps. I've managed to lock the wheels, get brake fade from track use, and tried extremely hard.... But never have I been able to engage the ABS. Warning light on or off.

Cheers guys! The teeth on the driver side ring are pretty rounded off. Would a photo help diagnosis? Will check all the connectors.

Got a strange ABS fault. Car is a phase 2 172, standard brakes and recent ATE fluid. Never been able to engage ABS, also the ABS light intermittently comes on, and when it does, the braking power is significantly less. Only recently noticed this connection. Presumed I'd just cooked the fluid at...

Definitely wouldn't run wheels without spigot rings. Wheel bolts aren't designed to withstand shear forces such as the weight of the car multiplied by heavy cornering forces. The spigot ring helps the wheel locate onto the raised lip of the hub (which in turn takes any shearing forces, and the...

How are you finding this manifold now? I read in your other thread you needed an o2 sensor, do you think that affected the power output? Did you get a dyno run before and after? Or just the dyno after Vs the factory power figures? A friend of mine is seriously considering one of these. For the...

Thanks, sounds good let me have a think

This is fantastic! Any chance of other cars? I have the same issue in my 350z...

Cool thanks mate! Forgot about the geometry!

Car is a Clio 172, 83,000 miles. I’ll be having my leaking front shocks replaced. Currently on KYB shocks and Apex springs. Since stripping the rear out the springs work a LOT better, and it handles a lot more predictably. I’ll be changing to cup shocks. I have a few questions: Is it worth...

Does it show a light on the dash when switched off?

Did this get resolved? Currently got the same issue.

The button in my 172 does nothing, is it permanently on or permanently off?

Haha well I've already got mine so that's ok! Will get cup shocks when Ive been paid, cheers guys.

Perfect, thanks. Just on the road they're shite? Makes sense I suppose.