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I think you'll struggle to get anything similar volume to the OEM exhaust. Ktec 2.25 resonated exhaust do sound nice though. Not too loud, and stainless.

That's bizarre as the front doors speakers and tweeters run to the same pins on the iso connector

Do they work if plugged back into the headunit rather than the amp?

The front speakers are wired to the tweeters on the dash, you must have tapped the wire in the wrong place. If you wire your amp to the front speaker wires behind the head unit this will send power to the door speakers and the tweeters. Sorry didn't realise you've already swapped out the...

As far as I'm aware Renault never did Monaco blue on the phase 1, so you might be looking for the wrong colour..

Unless you're going to add an amp to power the new speakers, you won't really get much of an improvement unless the original speakers are goosed. Most aftermarket speakers aren't as sensetive and require more power to get moving.

The connector on the left of the RCA input is the speaker level input, looks like it needs the adapter that would have been provided originally. If you don't have this I would just purchase a line out converter and connect it to the rear speaker wires and use the RCA input on the amp. In...

Yeh now that you mention it mine were black, and I don't recall being given the option for the purple ones

I didn't notice any difference tbh, unless your standard ones are completely shot I don't think there's much to gain. As far as I'm aware some of the diesel clios don't even have a rack Bush, just bolted straight on.

Most cars tend to have a high idle until warm to help the engine get to temp

Don't fit the 6x9, sound coming from the rear end is just wrong in many levels. The sub you can fit, you will just need a line level converter and tap into the rear speakers. Or, your amp might actually have high level inputs so you can plug the rear speaker wires directly into the amp to...

Chisel the anti theft ring off and then try smashing a socket on?

I used a shaftec CV joint on my civic and the quality was top notch too.

I just got 5 litres of shell helix ultra 5w40 and a Bosch filter for my civic for 31 quid. The non ultra was even cheaper. Either will be fine I would have thought

If the light comes on and remains on before you start moving it won't be a ring, it's more likely an abs sensor as the dodgy sensor will likely have an incorrect resistance and flag the fault straight away If it's a ring it would usually come on once you start moving once it realised the ring...

3k for a black 182? 3k is definitely RB territory

It's also about ,£500-1k over priced for a bg182. Yes, it's got some nice mods, but everybody knows you never get your money back on mods unless you return to stock and flog separate

Guys how can it be the fuse when it works when the pedal is fully depressed?? Sounds like a dodgy non oe switch, or an incorrectly set switch

Jack it up and check the ball joints, rod ends, rods, top mounts. With the car on the ground, check to see if you can see any excessive play in the steering rack bushes

Can't help with the fibre washer other than just keep chipping away at it, I never had that issue, maybe a drip of wd40 might help free it. The entire exhaust is hung on rubber so there should be plenty of movement to get the new dohnut in, but if you really do struggle then the cat to centre...

It's easy. I found it useful to have somebody in the engine bay with a socket on the other side of the bolt as it's quite awkward from underneath. Other than that it's no problem I found a universal joint attachment and a load of extensions worthwhile

Easy init!!

How did you get on?

Don't think youl get much interest here mate. There's very very few mk2 owners who wish to put massive body kits on

Nope, if you look at where my arrow is pointing they are in there. It will become clear when you get back under the car trust me

Yeh the extra nut on the passenger side you mention is holding on a bracket to secure the pas pipes I believe from memory, remove that first and then you can get to the nut you need to shift to get the bush out I can't remember anything being in the way of the driver's side upper bolt, I...

Take a look at this pic and itl give you an idea, it's the bolt which clamps the front of the clamp to the main bracket which you have just unbolted from the subframe and squeezes the bush in place. With those 4 main bolts removed you should now be able to wiggle the steering rack about to get...

Seriously mate it's easy providing you've got a rachet with some long enough extensions and a rachet spanner. I found it a complete pain in the arse but I went in blind, if I'd gone in knowing what I've just told you I recon I could have had it done in an hour.

I had no issues with goodridge. Fitted perfect

Also, one of the bolts to the clamp which goes to the subclframe can't be accessed via a hole and deep socket, I believe it's the upper bolts, you will need a rachet spanner unless you want to spend hours with a regular spanner as you can only get a few mm of movement each time and there's a lot...