172 Cam Cover Removal

[GarethClio]

Hello, I have been a member of this forum since I got myself a Ph1 172 a couple of months ago, but this is my first post.

I have known since I bought the car that there is a leak from the cam cover gasket at the rear of the engine which I intended to fix when I did the timing belt in a few months time. However when checking the spark plugs at the weekend I found that when I removed the coil pack from cylinder 4 the spark plug flute was full of oil, I dabbed out all the oil and removed the plug and the electrode and inside the cylinder were fine. This points me to the only other explanation which is the cam cover gasket, which means I should do it sooner rather than later.
Now I know that the the cam cover contains the upper halfs of the cam carriers and as such I need to remove the belt first. My first question is are the cam sprockets located (pins, key, etc) or are they friction fit, if the answer is the later then how do I lock the cams and and where do I get the tool from. The same question also applies to the front pulley (ie do I need to lock the crank). Also what position do I lock it all in, is it TDC? or safe (all pistons mid stroke?).
Please bare with me I'm nearly done, then when all is complete what are the tightening torques and orders for the cam carriers/cover, and what is the best way to time the engine back up?

Thanks for reading and I hope someone who has done this before can help, also any other information about the job would be appreciated.
Cheers.

 

[edde]

Drop me an email I'll send you the file its a long job to do.

eddeuk at yahoo.co.uk

So you did the timing belt without the proper tools ? Thats risky.

 

[BenR]

How did you do the cambelt without the cam locking tools previously then?

Its a fiddly affair and you need the cam locking tool, the cam pulley locking tool and the crank locking tool.

All the pulleys are friction fit, and as such if you do not loosen the cam pulleys and follow the correct tensioning procedure then the cam timing will be out even if you line everything back up in the 'same place'.

If you email eddy i'm sure the workshop manual will explain it all relatively easily for you, but be prepared to pay out for the tools.

 

[bmh.01]

The locking tools are about £50 from somewhere on the net. Can't remember where I got mine from now.

 

[BenR]

the sealy stuff is cheaper yea, but you'll need the cam pulley locking tools aswell.

An 8mm punch can be used to lock the crank.

http://www.angel-works.co.uk/articles/f4rbuild.php

you can read my article for pics there.

 

[GarethClio]

Thanks everyone for your help, I think there is misunderstanding though. I haven't yet changed the cambelt, I intend to do it during the job. Thanks again and I will update when it is all done.